Taking on Fast Fashion With Leather Bags Made From Luxury Brand Scraps
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Taking on Fast Fashion With Leather Bags Made From Luxury Brand Scraps

By Clarissa Sebag-Montefiore
Sat, Jun 29, 2024 7:00amGrey Clock 4 min

Dana Cohen witnessed the meteoric, and frightening, rise of fast fashion working for apparel companies in New York City for over a decade.

“We went from designing unique, thoughtful products to chasing trends and everything started to look the same,” recalls Cohen, 41, who was born and raised in Florida but now lives in Brooklyn with her family. “I watched fabrics get ordered and never be used and garments piling up on sales racks. We were drowning in fashion excess.”

It was then Cohen realised that she could do something to help while remaining in an industry she loved. “I couldn’t be complicit in the destruction of the planet and knew there had to be a better way to design,” she says.

undefined In November 2019, just a few months before the pandemic, Cohen launched Hyer Goods, a leather accessories company that uses the waste created by other brands—with fabric sourced from deadstock and factory scraps—to make bags, wallets, keychains, and blazers. The name Hyer is a riff on “higher,” or better, design.

Cohen’s mission is simple: to use scrap waste and “turn it into something beautiful.”

THE ITEMS 

Hyer Goods focuses on leather because it is “high-quality, durable and can last for generations. The last thing we’d want to do is create more things that just end up in a landfill,”  Cohen says. She launched an accessories brand, meanwhile, because accessories are small. “Focusing on small goods enables us to maximise the waste available. We even use the cutting waste to make our small leather goods, like card wallets and watch bands.”

Items include the ’90s-style luxe medium shoulder bag, which comes in colours like white and bright red and crocodile texture. There is also the luxe camera bag—available in a bright pop of fuschia pink and more neutral tones, such as camel—and the pocket cube bag, an everyday satchel with a canvas front pocket.

Hyer Goods also sells a deadstock leather blazer in a relaxed fit in black, chocolate and camel, and phone slings and wallets, as well as a handful of knitwear items, including the “salvaged angora scarf” and “a better beanie,” both created using leftover materials such as angora and merino yarn.

Cohen’s favorite style, however, is the luxe mini bucket bag, which comes with two different removable straps.

“It’s both classic and iconic in design,” she says. “I love that it converts from a crossbody to a handheld bag which enables me to wear it anywhere from errands to a wedding.”

Hyer Goods is currently selling a limited-edition, made-to-order Hello Adrianne hand-painted canvas bucket bag, featuring either a pair of tomatoes or a piece of farfalle pasta. A collaboration with the American artist Adrianne, dubbed “the tomato girl” for her depictions of canned tomatoes and other Italian foods, each bag is hand-painted in New Jersey.

Hyer Goods uses deadstock materials, discarded by luxury brands, which reduces the energy footprint needed to breed livestock
Lena Shkoda

“A good-quality bag can last for generations. I love the idea of creating heirloom products that can be handed down,” explains Cohen. “It’s the antithesis to fast fashion. I cherish some of my mom’s old bags, and I hope these bags have a similar future.”

THE PRICE

Many of the bags mentioned are priced around US$300, give or take. The deadstock leather blazer is US$375. The salvaged angora scarf is US$120, and the better beanie is US$75.

Besides shopping online, customers can also pop into the Hyer Goods store located on a quaint street in New York’s West Village.

WHAT’S THE GOOD?

Each year, 6.3 million tons of textiles are discarded in the fashion industry; in accessories, up to 15% of leather can be wasted due to the material’s natural defects, according to the Hyer Goods website. Most bag brands use either new leather, whose harvesting is bad for the environment, or vegan leather. Vegan leather may be animal-free, but it contains substantial amounts of plastic, does not wear well, and can take centuries to degrade.

By contrast, Hyer Goods uses deadstock materials, discarded by luxury brands, which reduces the energy footprint needed to breed livestock, as well as the waste sent to landfills. “In addition to using upcycled materials, every decision we make is made with the planet in mind, from our packaging choices to our designs,” says Cohen.

The company uses veg-tanned leather skins and tries to source leather made in Italy, directly from factories. Any canvas used, meanwhile, is deadstock, while the knits are made from luxury yarn leftovers, sourced locally in New York. Every supplier, meanwhile, must agree to the Hyer Goods Supplier Manual, which includes compliance with human rights laws.

WHAT’S NEXT?

Cohen says her goal from the start was to create the highest-quality goods out of waste.

“While we’re already using incredible Italian leathers and other luxury leftovers, I’m excited to announce some new sources of waste that are coming from the most exclusive, high-end brands in the world,” says Cohen. “In order to keep emissions as low as possible, we’ve developed an entire new supply chain in Italy, where the waste exists, and will be debuting a Made in Italy collection utilizing the world’s best leftover leathers soon.”



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Companies selling everyday goods say lower-income consumers are struggling, but better-off households are spending freely

By AARON BACK
Wed, Jul 3, 2024 4 min

Sellers of everyday consumer goods are experiencing a growing divide in their customer base between the more and less affluent. How they respond depends in part on where their products sit in the pecking order.

Both packaged-food companies and makers of household goods such as cleansers and paper towels are describing a bifurcation whereby higher-income consumers are spending freely, but those with lower incomes are feeling increasingly pinched by the cumulative impact of years of inflation.

“I think there’s certainly been much more bifurcation of the market, and it’s been creeping up over time. I wouldn’t say it’s been a sudden change,” Bank of America analyst Anna Lizzul said in an interview. Companies that are more exposed to low-income consumers “have mentioned the word bifurcation many times over the last 12 months,” she added.

Yet things appear to have come to a head recently. For food companies in particular, discounts and promotions are now back on the table after years of price increases—a significant concern for their investors. General Mills , during its latest quarterly earnings conference call, said it would step up coupon offerings in the current fiscal year and described the intensity of promotions in the industry as back to pre-Covid levels. The company’s stock fell 4.8% in response.

But for those targeting better-off households, the imperative is to keep investing and innovating to continuously improve their products, justifying still-higher prices in a process referred to as premiumisation.

This has long been the strategy of Procter & Gamble , which tends to occupy the premium tier of the categories in which it operates, from Gillette razors to Bounty paper towels. “The consumer within our categories, the consumer that represents our consumption base is actually holding up very well,” P&G Chief Financial Officer Andre Schulten said at an investor conference in June.

Most consumer-staples companies, however, have products targeting various income levels. General Mills, for instance, boasts organic Annie’s mac and cheese and high-end Blue Buffalo pet food among its brands. Kimberly-Clark competes with P&G at the high end in many categories, while also offering value-tier brands such as Scott toilet paper and paper towels.

The premium tier of products “continues to grow very, very robustly,” Kimberly-Clark Chief Executive Michael Hsu said on the company’s first-quarter conference call in April. “That all said, clearly, I would say, middle- to lower-income households look like they are becoming more stretched.”

“I think the growth driver for us over the long term is by making products better, premiumising, elevating our categories. But we want to serve the value-oriented consumer as well, too,” Hsu said.

Compared with P&G and Kimberly-Clark, Clorox stands out as more exposed to low-income consumers thanks to the categories it plays in, such as cleansers that face more competition from private-label goods, said Bank of America’s Lizzul. This is the case even though Clorox too often occupies the higher end of those categories, such as with its Glad-brand trash bags.

The company “is returning to pre-COVID levels of promotion to support a return to volume growth,” she wrote in a recent note. While much of that promotion spending will go to things such as displays as well as discounts, she still sees it having an impact on pricing and sales mix in the near term. Many other companies in the household-goods space are preferring for now to spend on stepped-up marketing and other investments in their brands instead of discounts, she said.

To be sure, lower-income American households are in aggregate still better off than they were before the pandemic, even accounting for inflation. Goldman Sachs forecasts that real, inflation-adjusted incomes for the bottom 20% will rise 1.8% this year. They also expect the top 20% to earn 2.7% more. At the same time, cash cushions built up during the pandemic have declined. The percentage of Americans who say they have enough cash to cover an unexpected $400 expense fell to 63% in 2023, equivalent to 2019 but down from 68% in 2021, according to Federal Reserve surveys.

Among those living paycheck to paycheck, there have been other shocks as well. Notably, the expiration of higher pandemic-related Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program benefits in March 2023 hit the food budgets of certain households by hundreds of dollars a month. Speaking on an earnings conference call in April, Nestlé CFO Anna Manz said that benefit change plus years of cumulative inflation had together reduced the purchasing power of lower-income American households by about 50% as of the first quarter.

“Now those are the consumers that predominantly buy in the frozen-food category, which is why we see a continued ongoing impact there,” Manz said. The Swiss food company owns frozen brands such as DiGiorno, Stouffer’s and Lean Cuisine. In its first-quarter earnings report , it said real internal growth, its measure of underlying sales volume, fell 5.8% year-to-year in North America, “primarily driven by a decline in frozen food.”

Yet even here, the company expects product innovation to be part of the solution. “There’s a lot to come, particularly on frozen actually, which is a high-innovation category. Consumers like seeing new stuff coming through; they want new meals,” Manz said.

Over time, premiumisation is a fundamental growth driver for all consumer-staples companies. The unit volume growth of diapers, for instance, is essentially just a function of birth rates. Only by making them better over time and charging more for that improvement can companies really drive revenue growth.

When lower-income consumers are feeling pressured, however, that long-term imperative might conflict to a degree with near-term necessities. So while it is understandable that companies often say they prefer to invest in marketing and innovation, many will also capitulate on price.

Investors could punish them for that.

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11 ACRES ROAD, KELLYVILLE, NSW

This stylish family home combines a classic palette and finishes with a flexible floorplan

35 North Street Windsor

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