Everyone’s Over ‘Quiet Luxury.’ Here’s What’s Next
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Everyone’s Over ‘Quiet Luxury.’ Here’s What’s Next

Cosy silhouettes and sumptuous fabrics were throughlines of the fashion collections shown last week in Milan

By RORY SATRAN
Tue, Feb 27, 2024 8:32amGrey Clock 3 min

“Quiet luxury” has become a bit of a dirty phrase in Milan. To some at the Italian brands that embody the term , it’s reductive—an overly TikTok-ified way of describing classic, refined clothing. Many fashion industry people roll their eyes when it comes up.

Brunello Cucinelli , one of the kings of natural textiles, prefers the term “gentle luxury.” At his fall presentation in Milan this past week, the (extremely expensive) clothing at which he excels looked especially touchable. Cashmere sweatsuits were layered with blanket-like scarves and silky suiting hung in loose pleats. Even an evening look, composed of a black sweater tucked into a feathered skirt, appeared comfy. Holding a pillowy bag, one Brunello disciple called it “accogliente”—Italian for “cozy.”

One step beyond coziness is protection, and there was plenty of that in Milan, too. Chalk it up to an uncertain luxury market , the roiling geopolitical climate or global warming, but using clothing as a sanctuary seemed to be on many designers’ minds. For some, like the excellent Brioni La Donna and Loro Piana collections, that means impeccable tailoring and forever-worthy double-breasted coats. Others, like Luke and Lucie Meier at Jil Sander, took the cocooning more literally, making succulent, quilted floor-length capes.

Not everyone is swaddling themselves in shearling. Architect Bianca Censori, who joined her companion, the rapper Ye, at the Marni show, wore a mere scrap of leather that failed to cover her buttocks among other body parts. No protection needed—except her bodyguard.

The Look of Love at Prada

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, the co-creative directors of Prada, are on quite a roll. If you were feeling hyperbolic, you might even say that they’re making fashion history. The duo’s fall collection started with thinking about love, explained Simons backstage, but “all the elements of love,” including loving your home, or even loving your sheets. There’s that theme of comfort again.

That manifested in a romance for different eras of fashion, remixed: A Jackie O. linen shift dress shot through with a streak of shearling. A leather bomber jacket embellished with “1913,” the year Prada was founded. A twin set in shocking red and ultraviolet. High-tech nylon jackets in midcentury couture shapes.

“There is no way to think about the future unless you have a good understanding of the past,” said Simons.

Everyday Allure at Bottega Veneta

In less than four years, Matthieu Blazy has completely renewed Bottega Veneta, making it a cult spot for creative types that want unique clothing and accessories with plenty of craftsmanship. Without succumbing to naked dresses and other revealing gimmicks, the brand appeals to a broad demographic, as shown by front-row neighbours Julianne Moore, 63, and A$AP Rocky, 35.

The fall collection, Blazy said backstage, was a “celebration of the everyday.” He found himself thinking about the allure of everyday clothing on his nightly dog walks. This meant recognisable pieces like peacoats, skirts and sweaters, reduced to their essential essence but rendered fabulous through textile innovation and fabrication. A simple yellow evening dress had a shirred-fabric fraying (not unlike recent work by Phoebe Philo ) and a long column skirt boasted leather plumes.

Blazy wanted to express resilience, he said, like flowers blooming in the desert. Fittingly, he designed giant Murano glass cactus flowers to decorate the show space.

Womblike Sumptuousness at Jil Sander

Real life crept into the fashion bubble on the day of Jil Sander’s show, when guests were confronted with a triple-whammy of rain, traffic and multiple public protests that closed the streets. Supermodel Mariacarla Boscono, like several models and editors, had a harrowing trip from Dolce & Gabbana to Jil Sander, and was swept right into hair and makeup and then onto the runway. Wearing the first look, a cocoon-like rounded red suit, Boscono was worth the wait.

Jil Sander put forward an extensive 68-look collection chock-full of satisfyingly sumptuous pieces. Chunky knitwear was sheathed in fine netting, tailored pieces were lined in silky quilting. Coats in deer leather and Himalayan goat fur looked like outerwear for an Icelandic wedding.

Androgynous Realism at Tod’s 

At conservative Italian stalwart Tod’s, Matteo Tamburini executed an impressive debut. Upon arriving from Bottega Veneta in December, the first thing Tamburini discussed with Tod’s group boss Diego Della Valle was the need to create “desirable objects.” “You don’t want to have a big fashion show and then find nothing in the store,” said Tamburini after the show.

So in just a few short months, Tamburini was able to create a tightly edited women’s collection full of androgynous separates and light, appealing accessories. Stylist Brian Molloy, who’s also worked with The Row and Hermès , worked magic with restraint. One supersoft foldable tote big enough for a laptop had a slit at the top so it could fit under your shoulder—easy stuff that merits a high price tag.



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The computing revolution investors cannot ignore 

Quantum computing is moving from theory to real-world investment. Professor David Reilly says it could reshape finance, security and global technology infrastructure. 

By Jeni O'Dowd
Mon, Mar 9, 2026 3 min

For decades, the world’s computing power has quietly expanded at an astonishing pace.  

From the first transistor developed at Bell Labs in 1947 to modern processors containing billions and even trillions of transistors, each generation of technology has been faster, smaller and more powerful than the last. 

But according to quantum physicist and technology entrepreneur David Reilly, that era of effortless progress is beginning to slow. 

Reilly, CEO of Sydney-based Emergence Quantum and Professor of Physics at the University of Sydney, says the computing infrastructure underpinning modern economies is approaching fundamental physical limits. 

And that could have enormous implications for finance, artificial intelligence and global investment. 

Speaking at an industry event organised by Kanebridge International, Reilly said many critical parts of modern society depend on computing and the infrastructure used to process information. 

The slowdown behind the tech boom 

For years, the technology industry relied on a steady improvement known as Moore’s Law, where the number of transistors on a chip doubled roughly every two years.  

More transistors meant more computing power, allowing faster software, smarter devices and ever-larger data systems. 

Today, however, those gains are slowing. 

“It feels to me very innate that I’m going to just find that next year there’s going to be another breakthrough,” Reilly said. 

“But if you look at the data…there’s a slowing down, a roll off in performance that started some 10, 20 years ago.” 

Rather than making chips dramatically faster, manufacturers are now largely increasing computing capacity by packing more transistors onto each processor.  

The approach works, but it comes with growing complexity, higher costs and increasing energy demands. 

The brute-force race for AI 

That challenge is already visible in the massive data centres being built to support artificial intelligence. 

In the race to dominate AI, companies are constructing vast computing facilities that consume huge amounts of electricity and water. Reilly described this expansion as a “brute force” approach driven by the global competition to develop advanced AI systems. 

Yet the demand for computing power continues to accelerate. 

Artificial intelligence, advanced robotics, healthcare research, pharmaceuticals and cybersecurity all require far more processing capacity than today’s systems can easily deliver. 

The question now facing the technology sector is whether traditional computing can keep up. 

Enter quantum computing 

That is where quantum computing enters the conversation. 

Unlike conventional computers, which process information using binary switches that represent ones and zeros, quantum computers exploit the unusual behaviour of particles at the atomic scale. 

Reilly describes them as a fundamentally different type of machine. 

“So a quantum computer is a wave computer,” he said. 

Instead of processing information through simple on-off switches, quantum systems can use wave-like properties of particles to process many possible outcomes simultaneously. 

Those waves can interact in complex ways, reinforcing correct solutions while cancelling out incorrect ones. In theory, this allows quantum systems to tackle certain types of problems dramatically faster than classical computers. 

What it could mean for finance 

The concept may sound abstract, but its potential applications are significant. 

Quantum computers are expected to transform areas such as materials science, chemical modelling and pharmaceutical development.  

They could also help solve complex optimisation problems in logistics, finance and risk management. 

For financial institutions in particular, the technology could offer new tools for detecting fraud, analysing market behaviour and optimising portfolios. 

But the shift will not happen overnight. 

“One message to take away is that quantum is not going to suddenly solve all of your problems,” Reilly said. 

Instead, he said quantum systems will likely complement existing computing technologies as part of a broader and more diverse computing ecosystem. 

Why data centres may soon “go cold” 

One key change already emerging is how computing systems are physically designed. 

Many next-generation technologies, including quantum processors, operate far more efficiently at extremely low temperatures. As a result, future data centres may rely heavily on cryogenic cooling systems to manage heat and energy consumption. 

Reilly believes that the shift will gradually reshape the computing industry. 

“Over the next five years, you’re going to see data centres go cold,” he said. 

“And as that happens, they almost drag with them new compute paradigms.” 

Emergence Quantum, the company he co-founded, is focused on developing technologies to support that transition, including cryogenic electronics and integrated hardware platforms designed for quantum computing and energy-efficient systems. 

A new technological era 

For investors and businesses, the technology remains in its early stages. But the scale of global interest is growing rapidly. 

Governments, research institutions and technology companies are investing heavily in quantum research, betting it could become a foundational technology for the next generation of computing. 

For Reilly, the moment feels similar to earlier technological turning points. 

In the 19th century, new discoveries in thermodynamics helped drive the development of steam engines and the Industrial Revolution. In the 20th century, advances in electromagnetism led to radio, television and eventually the internet. 

Quantum physics, he suggests, could represent the next chapter in that story. 

“Today we have, as a society, in our hands new physics that we’re just beginning to figure out what to do with,” Reilly said. 

“But I think it’s an exciting time to be alive and watch what happens over the coming decades.” 

 

 

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