Taking on Fast Fashion With Leather Bags Made From Luxury Brand Scraps
4 min
Dana Cohen witnessed the meteoric, and frightening, rise of fast fashion working for apparel companies in New York City for over a decade.
“We went from designing unique, thoughtful products to chasing trends and everything started to look the same,” recalls Cohen, 41, who was born and raised in Florida but now lives in Brooklyn with her family. “I watched fabrics get ordered and never be used and garments piling up on sales racks. We were drowning in fashion excess.”
It was then Cohen realised that she could do something to help while remaining in an industry she loved. “I couldn’t be complicit in the destruction of the planet and knew there had to be a better way to design,” she says.
undefined In November 2019, just a few months before the pandemic, Cohen launched Hyer Goods, a leather accessories company that uses the waste created by other brands—with fabric sourced from deadstock and factory scraps—to make bags, wallets, keychains, and blazers. The name Hyer is a riff on “higher,” or better, design.
Cohen’s mission is simple: to use scrap waste and “turn it into something beautiful.”
THE ITEMS
Hyer Goods focuses on leather because it is “high-quality, durable and can last for generations. The last thing we’d want to do is create more things that just end up in a landfill,” Cohen says. She launched an accessories brand, meanwhile, because accessories are small. “Focusing on small goods enables us to maximise the waste available. We even use the cutting waste to make our small leather goods, like card wallets and watch bands.”
Items include the ’90s-style luxe medium shoulder bag, which comes in colours like white and bright red and crocodile texture. There is also the luxe camera bag—available in a bright pop of fuschia pink and more neutral tones, such as camel—and the pocket cube bag, an everyday satchel with a canvas front pocket.
Hyer Goods also sells a deadstock leather blazer in a relaxed fit in black, chocolate and camel, and phone slings and wallets, as well as a handful of knitwear items, including the “salvaged angora scarf” and “a better beanie,” both created using leftover materials such as angora and merino yarn.
Cohen’s favorite style, however, is the luxe mini bucket bag, which comes with two different removable straps.
“It’s both classic and iconic in design,” she says. “I love that it converts from a crossbody to a handheld bag which enables me to wear it anywhere from errands to a wedding.”
Hyer Goods is currently selling a limited-edition, made-to-order Hello Adrianne hand-painted canvas bucket bag, featuring either a pair of tomatoes or a piece of farfalle pasta. A collaboration with the American artist Adrianne, dubbed “the tomato girl” for her depictions of canned tomatoes and other Italian foods, each bag is hand-painted in New Jersey.
Lena Shkoda
“A good-quality bag can last for generations. I love the idea of creating heirloom products that can be handed down,” explains Cohen. “It’s the antithesis to fast fashion. I cherish some of my mom’s old bags, and I hope these bags have a similar future.”
THE PRICE
Many of the bags mentioned are priced around US$300, give or take. The deadstock leather blazer is US$375. The salvaged angora scarf is US$120, and the better beanie is US$75.
Besides shopping online, customers can also pop into the Hyer Goods store located on a quaint street in New York’s West Village.
WHAT’S THE GOOD?
Each year, 6.3 million tons of textiles are discarded in the fashion industry; in accessories, up to 15% of leather can be wasted due to the material’s natural defects, according to the Hyer Goods website. Most bag brands use either new leather, whose harvesting is bad for the environment, or vegan leather. Vegan leather may be animal-free, but it contains substantial amounts of plastic, does not wear well, and can take centuries to degrade.
By contrast, Hyer Goods uses deadstock materials, discarded by luxury brands, which reduces the energy footprint needed to breed livestock, as well as the waste sent to landfills. “In addition to using upcycled materials, every decision we make is made with the planet in mind, from our packaging choices to our designs,” says Cohen.
The company uses veg-tanned leather skins and tries to source leather made in Italy, directly from factories. Any canvas used, meanwhile, is deadstock, while the knits are made from luxury yarn leftovers, sourced locally in New York. Every supplier, meanwhile, must agree to the Hyer Goods Supplier Manual, which includes compliance with human rights laws.
WHAT’S NEXT?
Cohen says her goal from the start was to create the highest-quality goods out of waste.
“While we’re already using incredible Italian leathers and other luxury leftovers, I’m excited to announce some new sources of waste that are coming from the most exclusive, high-end brands in the world,” says Cohen. “In order to keep emissions as low as possible, we’ve developed an entire new supply chain in Italy, where the waste exists, and will be debuting a Made in Italy collection utilizing the world’s best leftover leathers soon.”
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The lunar flyby would be the deepest humans have traveled in space in decades.
4 min
It’s go time for the highest-stakes mission at NASA in more than 50 years.
On April 1, the agency is set to launch four astronauts around the moon, the deepest human spaceflight since the final Apollo lunar landing in 1972.
The launch window for Artemis II , as the mission is called, opens at 6:24 p.m. ET.
National Aeronautics and Space Administration teams have been preparing the vehicles to depart from Florida’s Kennedy Space Center on the planned roughly 10-day trip. Crew members have trained for years for this moment.
Reid Wiseman, the NASA astronaut serving as mission commander, said he doesn’t fear taking the voyage. A widower, he does worry at times about what he is putting his daughters through.
“I could have a very comfortable life for them,” Wiseman said in an interview last September.
“But I’m also a human, and I see the spirit in their eyes that is burning in my soul too. And so we’ve just got to never stop going.”
Wiseman’s crewmates on Artemis II are NASA’s Victor Glover and Christina Koch, as well as Canadian Space Agency astronaut Jeremy Hansen.
What are the goals for Artemis II?
The biggest one: Safely fly the crew on vehicles that have never carried astronauts before.
The towering Space Launch System rocket has the job of lofting a vehicle called Orion into space and on its way to the moon.
Orion is designed to carry the crew around the moon and back. Myriad systems on the ship—life support, communications, navigation—will be tested with the astronauts on board.
SLS and Orion don’t have much flight experience. The vehicles last flew in 2022, when the agency completed its uncrewed Artemis I mission .
How is the mission expected to unfold?
Artemis II will begin when SLS takes off from a launchpad in Florida with Orion stacked on top of it.
The so-called upper stage of SLS will later separate from the main part of the rocket with Orion attached, and use its engine to set up the latter vehicle for a push to the moon.
After Orion separates from the upper stage, it will conduct what is called a translunar injection—the engine firing that commits Orion to soaring out to the moon. It will fly to the moon over the course of a few days and travel around its far side.
Orion will face a tough return home after speeding through space. As it hits Earth’s atmosphere, Orion will be flying at 25,000 miles an hour and face temperatures of 5,000 degrees as it slows down. The capsule is designed to land under parachutes in the Pacific Ocean, not far from San Diego.
Is it possible Artemis II will be delayed?
Yes.
For safety reasons, the agency won’t launch if certain tough weather conditions roll through the Cape Canaveral, Fla., area. Delays caused by technical problems are possible, too. NASA has other dates identified for the mission if it doesn’t begin April 1.
Who are the astronauts flying on Artemis II?
The crew will be led by Wiseman, a retired Navy pilot who completed military deployments before joining NASA’s astronaut corps. He traveled to the International Space Station in 2014.
Two other astronauts will represent NASA during the mission: Glover, an experienced Navy pilot, and Koch, who began her career as an electrical engineer for the agency and once spent a year at a research station in the South Pole. Both have traveled to the space station before.
Hansen is a military pilot who joined Canada’s astronaut corps in 2009. He will be making his first trip to space.
Koch’s participation in Artemis II will mark the first time a woman has flown beyond orbits near Earth. Glover and Hansen will be the first African-American and non-American astronauts, respectively, to do the same.
What will the astronauts do during the flight?
The astronauts will evaluate how Orion flies, practice emergency procedures and capture images of the far side of the moon for scientific and exploration purposes (they may become the first humans to see parts of the far side of the lunar surface). Health-tracking projects of the astronauts are designed to inform future missions.
Those efforts will play out in Orion’s crew module, which has about two minivans worth of living area.
On board, the astronauts will spend about 30 minutes a day exercising, using a device that allows them to do dead lifts, rowing and more. Sleep will come in eight-hour stretches in hammocks.
There is a custom-made warmer for meals, with beef brisket and veggie quiche on the menu.
Each astronaut is permitted two flavored beverages a day, including coffee. The crew will hold one hourlong shared meal each day.
The Universal Waste Management System—that’s the toilet—uses air flow to pull fluid and solid waste away into containers.
What happens after Artemis II?
Assuming it goes well, NASA will march on to Artemis III, scheduled for next year. During that operation, NASA plans to launch Orion with crew members on board and have the ship practice docking with lunar-lander vehicles that Elon Musk’s SpaceX and Jeff Bezos’ Blue Origin have been developing. The rendezvous operations will occur relatively close to Earth.
NASA hopes that its contractors and the agency itself are ready to attempt one or more lunar landing missions in 2028. Many current and former spaceflight officials are skeptical that timeline is feasible.
When the Writers Festival was called off and the skies refused to clear, one weekend away turned into a rare lesson in slowing down, ice baths included.
From office parties to NYE fireworks, here are the bottles that deserve pride of place in the ice bucket this season.
