This Startup Promised to Help Fashion Go Green. Brands Didn’t Want to Pay for It.

When a Swedish startup launched a new material made from recycled textiles in late 2022, the fashion industry hailed it as a game changer in its efforts to lessen its environmental impact.

Last month, the company, Renewcell, filed for bankruptcy. While some big retailers, including H&M and Zara, were enthusiastic backers, not enough brands committed to buying its material. Having misjudged how quickly the fashion industry would switch to more sustainable sourcing, the company was left with a costly factory running far below capacity.

The plight of Renewcell illustrates the fashion industry’s hesitancy in adopting new materials that may be better for the environment but typically cost more, at least in the short term. It is also another sign of how some companies are putting less emphasis on green initiatives amid a more challenging economic climate.

“There’s a disconnect” between some companies’ stated sustainability ambitions and what they actually do, said Tricia Carey , Renewcell’s chief commercial officer. “Fashion brands have the intention,” Carey said, “but many are lacking the road map to make it happen.”

Making clothes uses a large and growing amount of the planet’s resources. More than 100 billion garments are produced annually and that number is set to rise by one-third by 2030, according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, a nonprofit. It says the average garment is worn only 10 times before being discarded, often ending up in the trash . The fashion industry is responsible for as much as 8% of global greenhouse-gas emissions, according to the United Nations Alliance for Sustainable Fashion.

Fashion brands have come under growing pressure from consumers and regulators to reduce their environmental impact, posing a dilemma for an industry hardwired to keep increasing sales by churning out more clothes.

To burnish their green credentials, brands have encouraged consumers to repair, recycle or sell old clothes rather than throw them away. They have also invested in so-called next-generation materials that promise to use fewer resources and, in some cases, have the potential to be recycled again and again.

Inditex , the parent company of Zara, says it wants a quarter of the fiber it uses to be made from next-generation materials by 2030. To foster new materials, the company has worked with more than 300 startups, also including Renewcell, through a Sustainability Innovation Hub that it set up four years ago.

H&M says it wants recycled fibers to constitute half of the material it uses by 2030. The company has invested in more than 25 sustainability startups, including Renewcell.

So far, the uptake of greener material has been sluggish. Recycled materials made up 7.9% of global fibre production in 2022, down from 8.5% the year before, according to the Textile Exchange, a nonprofit that advocates the adoption of more environmentally friendly materials. Much of that came from recycled plastic bottles, with less than 1% of all fibre coming from recycled textiles.

That’s despite next-generation materials attracting more than $3 billion of investment over the past decade, according to the Material Innovation Initiative, with dozens of new-textile companies launched during that time.

Founded in 2012, Renewcell became the first chemical textile-to-textile recycler to start producing material on a commercial scale.

Its material is called Circulose, which is produced by treating old textiles with chemicals to create a cellulose pulp. This is dried into sheets, which fibre producers can then dissolve to produce viscose and other materials that are used to make clothes. Unlike mechanically recycled fibres, which fray and ultimately disintegrate, Renewcell’s chemical process breaks old textiles down to the level of individual molecules from which strong, new fibres are made. These can be recycled indefinitely via the same process.

With many fashion companies pledging to invest in new textiles to be more sustainable, Renewcell bet on strong demand for its material.

The company raised $158 million, mostly through a 2020 listing in Stockholm, and invested $125 million to convert an old paper mill in eastern Sweden into a Circulose factory capable of producing 60,000 metric tons a year.

Renewcell also outlined plans for two additional factories that would increase its output sixfold by 2030.

Besides Inditex and H&M, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger owner PVH committed to buying significant quantities of fiber made from Circulose.

But Renewcell hit a brick wall in talks with other big brands. In meetings, brand executives would often express excitement and agree to pilot projects, only to balk at placing commercial-scale orders, said Carey.

Jolts to the economy, such as Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, and shaky consumer confidence had made brands risk averse.

Would-be customers fixated on how fiber made from Circulose cost 20% to 45% more than the virgin fibers they typically bought, as well as uncertainty about integrating a new material into their supply chains, Carey said. Fiber typically accounts for about 5% of the retail price of a finished garment.

Renewcell needed its factory to reach full output quickly to become commercially viable, but it achieved only 30% capacity last year as anticipated orders failed to materialize.

By October, the company was running out of cash, and in January it laid off a quarter of its 130 staff. It filed for bankruptcy in February after failing to secure fresh investment.

Renewcell is now seeking a buyer to repay its debts and restart production.

The company’s predicament is a grim sign for a clothing industry that claims to want to transform itself, said Claire Bergkamp, managing director of the Textile Exchange.

“My hope is this will be a wake-up call for the industry,” she said.

Unless fashion companies commit to paying higher prices for new, greener materials, other fiber startups could also struggle, Bergkamp added.

While the transition from gasoline cars to electric vehicles has benefited from billions of dollars in subsidies, the move to new textiles has received practically no government support, making startups reliant on private funding.

That has left some big clothing companies, notably H&M and Inditex, shouldering a relatively large share of the burden of supporting new-material startups.

H&M invested in Renewcell in 2017 and was the first retailer to launch products containing Circulose. It currently sells around three dozen products containing the material.

The retailer wanted to invest more but decided not to commit more cash in recent weeks because of the lack of support from other companies, said H&M Chief Executive Daniel Ervér .

Earlier this month, H&M announced a new investment in Syre, a startup developing a polyester-fabric recycling process, and pledged to buy $600 million worth of its material over seven years—assuming it achieves commercial production.

Demand for recycled polyester is already established, with material made from recycled bottles already commonly used to make clothes. But textile-to-textile recycled polyester is similar to Circulose in that the technology is untested at scale.

To drive a shift to next-generation materials, other companies need to invest and commit to buying new textiles at scale, Ervér said.

“H&M alone cannot provide the scale that is required,” Ervér said. “The industry needs to commit.”

Reporting season has once again reminded investors that a strong profit does not guarantee a rising share price, and a large loss does not always trigger a sell-off. What matters most is how each result compares with expectations and, increasingly, what management says about the year ahead. During the August 2026 season, companies offering credible turnarounds or unexpectedly strong guidance were rewarded handsomely, while those flagging weaker margins, slowing demand or greater uncertainty were punished.

The following ranking draws on Morningstar’s review of 164 ASX-listed companies and measures each company’s share-price movement on the day it reported. This captures the market’s immediate response to the earnings announcement, before subsequent economic developments, dividends and company-specific news cloud the picture. Here are the five biggest winners, and the five hardest-hit losers, of the season so far.

The five winners

1. Bapcor (ASX:BAP): +41.0%

Bapcor delivered reporting season’s largest relief rally after presenting early evidence that its troubled automotive-parts business was stabilising. Although underlying revenue fell 1.8% to $1.92 billion and underlying NPAT collapsed 85% to $10.8 million, underlying EBITDA of $152.5 million exceeded guidance.

More importantly, working-capital initiatives released $68.5 million in the second half, lifting cash conversion to 109.4% and reducing net debt by 63% to $135 million. The statutory loss was $431.6 million, largely because of non-cash impairments. Investors focused on improving operational momentum, stronger liquidity and management’s expectation of modest FY27 revenue growth.

2. Zip Co (ASX:ZIP): +18.2%

Zip comfortably surpassed its FY26 targets, sending the buy-now-pay-later provider’s shares sharply higher. Transaction volume rose 23% to $16.7 billion, while cash earnings before tax, depreciation and amortisation jumped 58% to a record $268.9 million. Statutory profit climbed 46% to $116.4 million, and the cash operating margin expanded by 4.2 percentage points to 20%.

The strongest signal was guidance for FY27 cash earnings of $340 million—around 26% growth and above analysts’ forecasts. US transaction volume increased 42.5% and now represents three-quarters of group volume, offsetting weaker customer activity in Australia.

3. CSL (ASX:CSL): +17.3%

CSL’s result was hardly spectacular in isolation, but it cleared a market bar that had fallen dramatically following earlier downgrades and restructuring announcements. Underlying NPATA was US$3.1 billion, down 2% in constant-currency terms, while operating cash flow reached US$3.51 billion.

CSL maintained its full-year dividend at US$2.92 per share and completed a A$1 billion buyback. The real catalyst was FY27 guidance for approximately 5% underlying profit growth, compared with market expectations closer to 2%. After an extended period of earnings disappointments, investors interpreted the outlook as evidence that CSL’s core plasma business was approaching a sustainable recovery.

4. Judo Capital (ASX:JDO): +16.9%

Judo Capital demonstrated strong operating leverage as its specialist business-lending franchise expanded. Full-year profit before tax rose 34% to $168.1 million, while pre-provision profit increased 42%. Gross loans and advances grew 18% to $14.7 billion, reaching the top of the bank’s guidance range and comfortably exceeding broader system growth.

Deposits increased 24% to $12.2 billion, return on equity improved by 1.1 percentage points to 6.4%, and earnings per share rose 29% to 9.9 cents. Reaffirmation of the FY27 outlook gave investors confidence that loan growth could continue without sacrificing margins or credit quality.

5. Super Retail Group (ASX:SUL): +15.8%

The owner of Supercheap Auto, rebel, BCF and Macpac reported record sales of $4.2 billion, up 3.2%, despite cautious discretionary spending. Profitability went backwards: normalised profit before tax fell 7% to $306 million and normalised NPAT declined 2.8% to $226 million as transformation spending weighed on margins. Nevertheless, the result exceeded subdued expectations, online sales grew 5.3% and membership across the group’s loyalty programs reached 13.1 million. Investors were also encouraged by positive early FY27 trading, stable gross margins and continued market-share gains. A fully franked 33-cent final dividend added to the appeal.

The five losers

1. Hansen Technologies (ASX:HSN): –21.2%

Hansen’s historic result met expectations, but investors recoiled from its outlook. The utility and communications software provider achieved an underlying EBITDA margin of 31%, exceeding its 30% target, while generating strong cash flow. However, management designated FY27 an “investment and transition year”, signalling a roughly five-percentage-point margin contraction as spending on products, sales capabilities and organisational changes increased.

Revenue had already been broadly flat, leaving investors concerned that the investment program would depress earnings before new growth appeared. Leadership changes, including the chief executive’s departure, added uncertainty. Management expects revenue growth and margins above 30% to return in FY28, but the market was unwilling to wait.

2. Life360 (ASX:360): –19.4%

Life360’s headline growth was impressive: quarterly revenue rose 38% to US$159 million, subscription revenue increased 31%, and adjusted EBITDA climbed 53% to US$31.1 million. Monthly active users reached 102.4 million and paying circles grew 27% to 3.2 million. The sell-off reflected expectations rather than a collapsing business.

Net income fell 18%, the net margin contracted from 6% to 3%, hardware shipments dropped 18%, and full-year EBITDA guidance was merely maintained. After a strong valuation run, investors wanted a larger upgrade and clearer evidence that heavy investment in advertising, international expansion and artificial intelligence would generate additional earnings.

3. PEXA Group (ASX:PXA): –17.0%

PEXA reported a 7% increase in continuing-operations revenue and 12% EBITDA growth to $152 million, accompanied by a two-percentage-point margin expansion. Free cash flow increased 39%, suggesting the core Australian electronic-conveyancing platform remained highly profitable. Investors instead concentrated on management’s warning that property-transfer volumes could decline, alongside regulatory uncertainty surrounding the fees PEXA can charge.

The company is also continuing to invest heavily in its loss-making international expansion. Morningstar considered the market reaction excessive, arguing that structural transfer-volume assumptions had not materially changed, but the combination of softer near-term activity and regulatory risk overwhelmed the respectable headline numbers.

4. SEEK (ASX:SEK): –14.3%

SEEK produced solid FY26 figures, including 10% revenue growth to $1.20 billion, a 15% rise in EBITDA and 28% growth in adjusted earnings per share. It also lifted its fully franked annual dividend by 13% to a record 52 cents. Those achievements were overshadowed by falling paid job-ad volumes and cautious FY27 assumptions.

The statutory accounts included a $201 million loss from the SEEK Growth Fund and $377 million of significant items, making the headline result considerably less attractive. Investors were particularly concerned that economic weakness could limit volumes while the company continued investing in platform integration and artificial-intelligence products.

5. JB Hi-Fi (ASX:JBH): –12.3%

JB Hi-Fi’s full-year result was broadly respectable, with group sales rising 5% to $11.1 billion and underlying earnings per share increasing 6% to $4.48. The damage came from its current-trading update. Australian sales were almost flat during the June quarter and deteriorated further in July, while earnings in the core Australian electronics business fell 3.6%.

Housing-related categories were particularly weak as higher living costs and interest rates constrained household budgets. With JB Hi-Fi entering the season on a demanding valuation, an in-line historic result was not sufficient: the loss of sales momentum prompted investors to rapidly reduce their expectations for FY27.

Overall, the season showed that share prices react less to whether profits rose or fell than to the gap between results and expectations. Bapcor was rewarded for being less troubled than feared, while several fundamentally profitable companies were punished because their outlooks failed to justify elevated valuations.