Fashion’s Boring-and-Expensive Era Is Over

Not long ago, designer Jonathan Anderson attended a music festival where he surveyed the crowd and thought, Now this is where all the fashion has been lurking.

“I saw more people dressing more in high fashion than actually what was happening in fashion,” said Anderson , who designs the British clothing brand JW Anderson, as well as LVMH’s Loewe.

The free expression of these festival goers stuck with Anderson as it clashed with the risk-shy attitude that has guided much of luxury fashion in recent years. “I wonder,” said Anderson this past weekend in Milan, “has fashion become so conservative whereas what’s happening out there is actually way more avant-garde?”

Just a couple of years ago in Milan, “quiet luxury ” was on the tip of everyone’s tongue. This collocation was a simplistic shorthand for where fashion was going: pricey but prim; light on logos but heavy on the wallet; all cashmere everything in grey, beige, navy.

Fashion is a creative industry and designers can only cup their mouths for so long. At the latest edition of Milan men’s fashion week, shouts in the form of new, notice-me clothes broke out from the runways.

“People want uniqueness, maybe they want something which is challenging somehow,” said Anderson, speaking after the latest JW Anderson show, which was widely held up as the most successful collection of a muddled Milanese sprint.

Highlights included winsome cardigans with children’s book depictions of London terrace houses, leather jackets contorted by ski-slope-like hems and a kitschy sweater showing a smirking pint of Guinness—an upmarket riff on a Dublin tourist souvenir.

The day after Anderson’s show, came the surprise online release of a bulging 171-outfit lookbook from Valentino, the first stab from the label’s new creative director Alessandro Michele, who helped lift Gucci to a more than $10-billion brand before leaving in 2022.

At Gucci, Michele ushered in a maximalist fashion moment, and based on this initial showing, his taste for theatrics is intact. Against a backdrop of winter-mint curtains, feather-haired models (often wearing gigundo nerd glasses and hoops of pearls) sported floppy dog-ear ties, Kermit-green suits and tapestry prints. Flipping through the collection, all the tired but fitting Michele comparisons came rushing back: Wes Anderson films, kooky grandmothers and leopard-clad psych-rock bands.

Valentino, which is part-owned by Kering, also made its commercial intentions clear by sending out 93 close-up photos spotlighting easy-to-buy accessories like V-logoed sandals and rectangular handbags.

Notably, Sabato de Sarno, the still newish creative director who replaced Michele at Gucci, seemed to be shrugging off his own restraints. Neither De Sarno nor François-Henri Pinault, CEO of Gucci parent company Kering, spoke to the press after the show, but the collection was a departure from the brand’s recent strategy of focusing on classic, trend-agnostic pieces that cater to older, wealthier clients.

Model on the runway at the Gucci fashion show during Milan Fashion Week Menswear Spring/Summer 2025 held at Triennale di Milano on June 17, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD via Getty Images)

De Sarno’s surf-inspired offering bounded between skin-revealing mesh polo shirts, skimpy thigh-high shorts and camp-collared shirts with blooming hibiscus flowers prints. It would be hard to imagine much of it on anyone over 29. (Actor Paul Mescal, 28, was already in the front row in a pair of those shorty shorts.)

Youthful abandon was the theme at Gucci’s mightiest Milanese competitor, Prada. “Sometimes when you get older you start to overthink a lot and you limit yourself,” said Raf Simons , who is co-creative of the brand with Miuccia Prada , the grand doyenne of Italian fashion. “When you are young, you just go. We like that spirit.”

Models wore navel-exposing shrunken sweaters and pre-wrinkled sportcoats, a seeming nod to teens who haven’t yet learned the wonders of ironing. A lurid palette of hot pink and electric blue spoke to juvenile fashion experimentation.

Throughout the long weekend in Milan, the feeling settled in that this new, shoutier tone was a necessary course correction during an unsteady period for the apparel industry, and really, Europe at large.

The chatter of the front row centred on this month’s European Union elections which saw a surge in support for right-wing candidates, catching pundits and leaders like French President Emmanuel Macron by surprise. Inflation also remains stubbornly high.

Pressingly, for the fashion world, some of the world’s largest luxury labels have been reporting a glut of unsold products and a dearth of shoppers. Past strategies don’t seem to be working and one could tell that brands were ready to try anything to spur shoppers to spend a bit more.

Even at Zegna, a label so synonymous with quiet luxury that the cast of “Succession” wore it on that money-mad show, the clothes were more conspicuous. In between its Learjet-bound sotto voce suits, one found vivacious coral patterned jackets in blue and yellow.

“For sure playing more with colours and prints, we had fun,” said Zegna’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori following his show. “It’s a sense of freedom that I wanted to express.”

Art can transform more than just walls—it shapes mood, evokes memory, and elevates the everyday. Discover how thoughtfully curated interiors can become living expressions of personal meaning and refined luxury, from sculptural furniture to bespoke murals.

Artful Abundance: The Sophisticated Joy of Artful Interiors

Imagine a hushed hospital corridor, its sterile walls awash in the glow of flickering fluorescent lights. In that unexpected moment, a solitary Monet painting emerged—a luminous tableau of delicate lilies dancing in quiet defiance.

As the clinical austerity yielded to the graceful presence of art, this single work transformed into a vessel of solace and hope amid overwhelming uncertainty.

That moment continues to resonate with me—a vivid reminder that art transcends mere aesthetics to become a profound catalyst for emotional healing and inspiration. It is this transformative experience that fuels my passion as a biophilic interior designer.

I create environments where every element, from bespoke murals to sculptural installations, harnesses art’s power to elevate the human spirit, spark creativity, and enrich lives. Let us journey together into the world of luxurious interiors that define modern elegance.

2. Art as Wellness: A Daily Ritual of Rejuvenation

At its core, art is a daily ritual that renews both mind and spirit. Scientific research consistently confirms that nature-inspired art reduces stress, lowers blood pressure, and kindles creativity.

The simple act of beholding a tranquil landscape or a subtle floral motif transforms your space into a private retreat, offering solace amidst a hectic world.

In my practice, I meticulously select artworks chosen not only for their aesthetic appeal but also for their potent, therapeutic benefits.

Each piece serves as daily inspiration—a quiet invitation to experience calm and well-being. For example, our Hilton project demonstrates how hospitality resorts integrate nature-inspired art not only for its visual impact but also as a medium of healing; here, a collaboration with a local artist produced a masterful installation that functions both as a statement piece and a source of well-being.

3. Bespoke Brilliance: Celebrating Your Unique Narrative

Luxury design is profoundly personal. Bespoke art transcends mass-produced décor by capturing your unique story—whether through a custom mural reminiscent of your favourite botanical garden or silk wallpapers that evoke the allure of exotic landscapes.

Each personalised creation turns your walls into a living narrative of cherished memories and distinctive taste. Consider how a thoughtfully designed space can reflect your individuality and elevate your living experience.

4. Sculptural Elegance: Redefining Spatial Dynamics

Art is not confined to two dimensions. Three-dimensional sculptural works bring vitality to interiors by adding depth, texture, and tactile allure.

Picture a gracefully sculpted piece—a marble table echoing the gentle rhythm of ocean waves or a repurposed bronze branch serving as an elegant room divider.

Such statement sculptures command attention while seamlessly integrating form with function and providing a natural conversation starter in any refined space.

5. Architectural Artistry: When Structure Meets Art

A truly sophisticated home elegantly merges art with architecture. Imagine a residence where bespoke staircases curve with elegance, where hand-carved wooden doors evoke the intricate beauty of nature, and where expansive windows frame breathtaking vistas.

In these spaces, every architectural detail contributes to a cohesive canvas of artistic expression. As you envision your own home, consider how your surroundings can be thoughtfully designed to reflect both beauty and purpose.

6. Furniture as Functional Art: Merging Practicality with Mastery

In luxury interiors, even the functional becomes exceptional through artful design. Consider a one-of-a-kind, hand-carved pink marble swivel chair—a masterpiece where practicality meets refined craftsmanship.

More than just a piece of furniture, this chair sparks conversation and serves as an emblem of creative innovation and exclusivity.

Let this be a symbol of how every element in your home might reflect your dedication to exquisite artistry.

7. Digital Sophistication: The Future of Artistic Expression

In an age defined by rapid technological advancement, digital art installations offer a contemporary twist on traditional forms.

High-resolution displays now present dynamic landscapes—a cascade of waterfalls, the quiet majesty of a forest, or a serene digital ocean vista—that adapt and evolve with your environment.

This modern element seamlessly aligns cutting-edge technology with timeless aesthetics, ensuring your space remains as innovative as it is elegant.

8. Luxurious Textiles and Furnishings: The Essence of Understated Elegance

Luxury is often revealed in the details: the textures, colours, and fabrics that together create a haven of understated splendour.

Bespoke silk cushions with intricate botanical embroidery, sumptuous velvet throws that evoke tropical charm, and bedding that mirrors the ethereal beauty of cloudscapes all contribute to an atmosphere of refined elegance and comfort.

Every tactile detail is chosen to evoke warmth and stand as a testament to your taste for excellence.

9. Refined Heritage: Honouring Timeless Craftsmanship

In the realm of luxury, tradition and modernity exist in perfect harmony. Integrating timeless antiques—such as a rare Vladimir Kagan couch or a coveted Hans Wegner chair—with contemporary design creates a dialogue that honours both heritage and innovation.

These storied pieces carry with them a legacy of masterful craftsmanship, adding layers of significance and depth to your living environment. They remind us that true elegance is built upon a foundation of enduring quality.

10. The Art of Personal Meaning: Crafting Your Legacy

Ultimately, art is the language through which you express your unique legacy.

Every carefully chosen piece reflects a part of your personal journey, turning your living space into a narrative as emotionally resonant as it is visually stunning.

It imbues your environment with memories, aspirations, and the essence of who you are—a living masterpiece that evolves with time.

Reflect on how these elements might not only beautify your home but also stand as timeless expressions of your personal story.

Now is the moment to immerse yourself fully in the joy of art. Elevate your surroundings and transform your residence into your greatest masterpiece.

Your heart, your legacy, and your space deserve nothing less than extraordinary artistry.

Ozge Fettahlioglu is the founder of Cocoplum | Biophilic Design Studio and Boxareno | Custom Modular Constructions. A wellness and biophilic design leader, she creates bespoke spaces that inspire, heal, and elevate daily living. Ozge is also a board member of Biophilic Cities Australia.