Your Old Clothes Are Worth Billions

Closets are full of unworn clothes ready for purging, thrifting is in vogue , and everybody’s looking for a good deal these days. It all sounds like a golden business opportunity—if anyone can figure it out.

Americans on average throw away some 70 pounds of clothes a year, and thrifting is becoming more popular by the day—particularly among younger consumers. The U.S. secondhand apparel market was worth about $43 billion last year, according to an annual market report from the online apparel reseller ThredUp . It estimates that the market could grow about 11% a year on average through 2028. The market is fragmented, with about 74% of thrift stores being independently run, according to a report from Piper Sandler.

Companies specialising in thrift, though, are struggling to stitch together a compelling investment case. Shares of the online seller ThredUp and the bricks-and-mortar thrift-store chain Savers Value Village are each down around 29% year to date. The luxury online resale platform RealReal has fared better, but in large part thanks to a debt exchange it announced in late February to address liquidity concerns. ThredUp and RealReal are both down significantly from their peaks a few years back.

This could simply be air coming out of highly inflated expectations. ThredUp and the RealReal made their debuts with much fanfare in 2021 and 2019, respectively. Savers listed last year with a lofty valuation. But sales growth for all three companies has slowed, and they are all growing slower than the overall market.

Nonprofits such as Goodwill control a sizeable portion of the secondhand market, with a steady supply of donations, and eBay dominates the resale market online. ThredUp and RealReal’s bet is that consignors and buyers would be willing to pay a premium for a more convenient selling and buying experience. Sellers need only mail in or drop off their goods, and the platforms do the work of photographing, pricing and tagging each item by size, brand, colour and condition so that items are easily searchable. For RealReal, there is an extra human step of making sure the products aren’t fakes. A single-item distribution system is difficult to recreate and is therefore a powerful moat, says Dylan Carden, an equity analyst at William Blair, referring to ThredUp.

But the expensive process also means profitability is distant: Neither ThredUp nor RealReal is expected to turn a profit on the basis of generally accepted accounting principles for the next four years, according to analyst estimates polled by Visible Alpha.

Balancing the quantity of supply with quality has been difficult. ThredUp last year introduced fees that are subtracted from the payout customers receive if their items are sold on the platform. The change is meant to encourage consumers to send in high volumes of high-quality clothes. RealReal last year tweaked its commission structure to motivate consignors to send in expensive items priced above $100.

While these moves could attract higher quality, they might also divert consignors to platforms such as Poshmark and eBay, where selling involves more work but potentially higher payout. Notably, both of those marketplaces have authentication features for high-end items, and eBay has been trying to simplify sellers’ listing process through generative AI .

Meanwhile, the bricks-and-mortar Savers comes with the promise of a more efficient shopping experience than nonprofits. Piper Sandler estimates that its sales per store is nearly twice that of Goodwill and more than six times that of the Salvation Army. But the retailer faces similar quality challenges.

Only about half the items that Savers gets actually end up on the sales floor, and of those about half actually are sold, according to a company filing. Savers receives all of its items—whether directly or indirectly—by paying nonprofits by the pound for donated products. Savers has previously said that it might be able to snag higher-quality donations by placing its drop-off trailers—known as GreenDrop—near locations frequented by wealthier shoppers.

While Savers has been profitable for the past three years, same-store sales have unexpectedly slowed in recent quarters, and its investment case is highly dependent on new-store growth. This remains a risk. Previous management had trouble opening up stores because they weren’t able to procure enough supplies of secondhand clothing, notes Peter Keith, equity analyst at Piper Sandler, who is still confident about the company’s ability to expand.

Much like that shirt you only wore once, secondhand-apparel sellers so far hold more promise than substance.

Former New Hampshire Gov. Chris Sununu delivered a warning to Treasury Secretary Scott Bessent during a recent visit to Washington: Already-high airfares will surge if the war in Iran doesn’t end soon.

Sununu, a Republican who represents some of the biggest airlines as president of the industry group Airlines for America, has for weeks sounded the alarm to Trump administration officials about the economic fallout from high jet fuel prices. The war, Sununu has argued, must come to a close soon, or things will get worse.

Administration officials have gotten the message.

Privately, President Trump’s advisers are increasingly worried that Republicans will pay a political price for the rising fuel costs, according to people familiar with the matter. Many of those advisers are eager to end the war, hoping prices will begin to moderate before November’s midterm elections.

The fallout from the U.S.-Israeli attack in late February has slowed traffic through the Strait of Hormuz, a vital shipping lane, triggering a sharp increase in oil, gasoline and jet-fuel prices.

That means consumers are grappling with high costs ahead of the summer travel season, as they consider vacation plans.

Sixty-three per cent of Americans said they put a great deal or a good amount of blame on Trump for the increase in gas prices, according to a new poll conducted by NPR, PBS and Marist.

More than 8 in 10 Americans said struggles at the gas pump are putting strain on their finances.

Jet-fuel prices roughly doubled in a matter of weeks after the war began, and they have remained high. Airlines have said that will add billions of dollars of additional expenses this year, squeezing profit margins.

U.S. airlines spent more than $5 billion on fuel in March—up 30% from a year earlier, according to government data.

Carriers have been raising ticket prices, hoping to pass the cost along to consumers, and they are culling flights that will no longer make money at higher price levels.

In March, the price of a U.S. domestic round-trip economy ticket rose 21% from a year earlier to $570, according to Airlines Reporting Corp., which tracks travel-agency sales.

So far, airlines have said the higher fares haven’t deterred bookings and they are hoping to recoup more of the fuel-cost increases as the year goes on.

Earlier this week, Trump said the current price of oil is “a very small price to pay for getting rid of a nuclear weapon from people that are really mentally deranged.”

Secretary of State Marco Rubio told reporters that if Iran got a nuclear weapon, the country would have more leverage to keep the strait closed and “make our gas prices like $9 a gallon or $8 a gallon.”

Trump has taken steps in recent days to bring the war to an end. Late Tuesday, the president paused a plan to help guide trapped commercial ships out of the Strait of Hormuz, expressing optimism that a deal could be reached with Iran to end the conflict.

Crude oil prices fell below $100 a barrel on Wednesday, after reports that Iran and the U.S. are working with mediators on a one-page framework to restart negotiations aimed at ending the conflict and opening the strait.

Sununu said Trump administration officials are conscious of the economic fallout from the war: “They get it…and I think that’s why they’re trying to get through the war as fast as they can.”

But he cautioned that it could take months for prices to return to prewar levels.

“Ticket prices won’t go down immediately” after the strait is fully reopened, Sununu said. “You’re looking at elevated ticket prices through the summer and fall because it takes a while for the prices to go down.”

Since the initial U.S.-Israeli attack in late February, Sununu has met in Washington with National Economic Council Director Kevin Hassett, representatives from the Transportation Department and senior White House officials.

A White House official confirmed that Hassett and Sununu have discussed the effect of increased fuel prices on the airline industry. The official said the conversation touched on how the industry can mitigate the impact of high jet fuel prices on consumers.

“The president and his entire energy team anticipated these short-term disruptions to the global energy markets from Operation Epic Fury and had a plan prepared to mitigate these disruptions,” White House spokeswoman Taylor Rogers said, pointing to the administration’s decision to waive a century-old shipping law in a bid to lower the cost of moving oil.

Rogers said the administration is working with industry representatives to “address their concerns, explore potential actions, and inform the president’s policy decisions.”

A Treasury Department spokesman pointed to Bessent’s recent comments on Fox News that the U.S. economy remains strong despite price increases. The spokesman said Treasury officials have met with airline executives, who have reaffirmed strong ticket bookings.

“We’re cognizant that this short-term move up in prices is affecting the American people, but I am also confident, on the other side of this, prices will come down very quickly,” Bessent told Fox News on Monday.

The war has already contributed to one casualty in the industry: Spirit Airlines. Company representatives have said they were forced to close the airline because the sustained surge in jet-fuel prices derailed the company’s plan to emerge from chapter 11 bankruptcy.

The Trump administration and Spirit failed to come to an agreement for the company to receive a financial lifeline of as much as $500 million from the federal government.

Transportation Secretary Sean Duffy has argued that the Iran war wasn’t the cause of Spirit’s demise, pointing to the company’s past financial struggles, as well as the Biden administration’s decision to challenge a merger with JetBlue.

Other budget airlines have also turned to the federal government for help since the U.S.-Israeli attack. A group of budget airlines last month sought $2.5 billion in financial assistance to offset higher fuel costs, and they separately wrote to lawmakers asking for relief from certain ticket taxes.

Your Old Clothes Are Worth Billions

Secondhand apparel retail is a booming business, but turning a profit is harder than it sounds

Administration officials have spoken to the airline industry, which has voiced concerns about the rising costs.