Estée Lauder Executive Chairman Says Good Leaders Have ‘Big Ears and a Little Mouth’

William P. Lauder might be a familiar name. His grandmother, Estée Lauder, founded her namesake brand in 1946 and grew it into one of the largest beauty companies today. Currently, the Estée Lauder Cos. have more than 45,000 employees worldwide and own over 20 brands, including Clinique, Tom Ford Beauty, La Mer, and Jo Malone.

Lauder, 64, is now the company’s executive chairman and chairman of the board of directors. He got his start in 1986 as the regional marketing director of Clinique U.S.A. in the New York metro area, helped launch the natural ingredients brand Origins, and eventually rose all the way to serve a stint as CEO of Estée Lauder in the late aughts. (It was recently announced his successor, longtime CEO Fabrizio Freda , will retire next summer amid slumping sales.)

In addition to his current position, Lauder teaches a class that he designed, “Decision-Making in the Leadership Chair,” at the Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania for second-year MBA students.

Penta recently spoke to Lauder about his most memorable career moments, consumer preferences in the beauty industry, and his thoughts on leadership.

Penta : What is your role at Estée Lauder?

William P. Lauder: We have two great assets: brands and people, and my primary focus is to build great brands and to engage with our people. I travel and visit a lot of our markets and see how we can grow in that market. We have a presence in London, Paris, Korea, and many other international destinations. I host a town hall for Estée Lauder Cos. employees in many of our markets and talk to them about what makes us special and what our values are.

I also visit our factories and research and development facilities to do the same thing.

Can you share a career highlight since you joined 38 years ago?

I was one of the people who created and launched the Origins brand in 1990. The idea was to create a line that was backed by science but made with natural ingredients. We had a product called Peace of Mind to put on your temples and wrists to help relieve stress. We let people sample it in stores, and they loved it so much that they immediately came back to buy it. From there, the brand exploded, and we opened Origins stores. This was innovative at the time because single-brand stores didn’t exist.

Since I’ve moved into corporate management, my highlight is to be able to travel and show the Estée Lauder Cos. flag, as I like to call it, to our employees.

Have are consumer preferences with respect to luxury fragrances and beauty products changing?

post-Covid, there has been an explosion in interest in luxury fragrances, which is reflected in our brands like Jo Malone London, Le Labo, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, Tom Ford, and Kilian Paris.

Also, we have new, much younger consumers in their late teens to early 20s who are very into makeup and buy our brands like Too Faced. They are getting into skin care by buying products from our brands, including Clinique and the Ordinary. Teenage boys are very interested in fragrances and buy Kilian Paris and Tom Ford. Our hope is that this younger generation continues their loyalty to us, especially as they get older and have more disposable income.

You teach a leadership class at Wharton. In your opinion, what are the attributes of a successful leader?

First and foremost, the most effective leaders must be effective communicators. I believe in short, quick, and concise comments and statements that you repeat, like mantras. These mantras should be able to be passed down to the people they lead.

Also, you have to be a great teacher to be a great leader. You need to make time for an in-depth conversation with the people you lead to get your message across.

And it’s important to have big ears and a little mouth. Listen more and talk less.

Breast cancer research is a priority for Estée Lauder. Can you tell us more about this? 

The Breast Cancer Research Foundation (BCRF) is a nonprofit that my mother, Evelyn, started more than 30 years ago. We, as a family, chose breast cancer because it’s the most common cancer that women are diagnosed with. One in eight women in the U.S. will be diagnosed with breast cancer, and 80% of our employees are women, so the statistic resonates.

The Estée Lauder Cos. Breast Cancer Campaign, our initiative that funds BCRF, is key to our company culture and a cause that brings us together meaningfully. In October, for Breast Cancer Awareness Month, we launch products across some of our brands, and proceeds from sales go toward the foundation. The campaign and the Estée Lauder Cos. Charitable Foundation have raised more than US$131 million to date for BCRF.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.