Revealing the tactics prestige brands use to keep buyers coming back for more
Luxury brands don’t play by the same rules as everyone else, turning the shopping narrative on its head with just-out-of-reach products
Luxury brands don’t play by the same rules as everyone else, turning the shopping narrative on its head with just-out-of-reach products
From the Spring 2024 issue of Kanebridge Quarterly magazine. Order your copy here.
In the world of luxury fashion, few items evoke as much desire and exclusivity as the Hermès Birkin bag.
Conceived 40 years ago, as legend has it, after a chance meeting between actress Jane Birkin and then Hermès chairman Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight from Paris to London, the coveted rectangular hold-all now has a folklore all of its own.
From rumoured ‘pre-spend’ requirements to stories of eager customers wooing Hermès sales assistants with freshly baked cookies just to get on the waitlist, Birkin lore persists because it can be tough to fact-check anything about the bag, its pricing or the brand’s distribution and sales practices. Hermès is notoriously tight-lipped and didn’t respond to requests for comment for this article.

But this phenomenon is no accident; it’s the perfect example of a meticulously crafted strategy employed by luxury brands to create a sense of urgency and prestige around their products.
“Storytelling, a strong brand narrative and engaging customers emotionally is so important in the luxury retail space,” says Dr Edwina Luck, senior lecturer in advertising, marketing and PR at the Queensland University of Technology.
“Then this is backed up with strategies such as creating scarcity around a particular product or line, which is exactly what Hermès do with the Birkin, to further create that very real sense of exclusivity that drives the luxury sector.”

According to global research firm IBISWorld, Australia’s luxury retail industry has grown 6.9 percent on average per year between 2018 and 2023 and is now worth more than $6.2 billion.
This is despite a trend during the pandemic for some brands such as Tiffany & Co. and Burberry to reposition parts of their business as ‘masstige’, meaning the perception of exclusivity in relatively affordable goods.
It’s a shift that has been exacerbated by the popularity of social media and overt influencer and celebrity endorsements driving such brands to a younger audience than has traditionally been associated with luxury retail.
“What all of that has done is actually make those ultra-luxury brands such as Hermès and Cartier even more exclusive,” says Dr Luck. “So, the gap is widening and as far as luxury brands and consumers are concerned, the more exclusive the better.”
Exclusivity has long been a cornerstone of luxury branding, creating a unique allure that sets high-end products apart from the mass market.
Limited production runs, personalised shopping experiences, and even the physical design of stores (think closed front doors and roped-off entrances) all contribute to the perception that these products are not just items, but experiences worth striving for.
Pre-spending — the concept that a consumer needs to build a “purchasing profile” that justifies their right to buy a certain product — is another tactic that brands use to build a deeper relationship between the consumer and the brand, creating a tiered connection that fosters loyalty and aspiration.
This initial investment, such as a scarf or a wallet, can serve as a gateway to the brand’s more exclusive offerings, such as particular product lines, limited-edition collections or bespoke fashion pieces.
“These strategies turn shopping into an event,” says Kelly Brown, co-founder of retail strategy agency, The Working Party.
“The anticipation, the thrill of securing a limited edition, the urgency of pre-spending — all these enhance the consumer experience.
“Luxury shoppers aren’t just buying a product, they’re buying a story, an experience, and a sense of belonging to an exclusive club. It’s about making them feel special and valued, which is exactly what consumers expect from luxury brands.”

The concept of scarcity isn’t new for high-end brands either. Enzo Ferrari, the father of the Italian luxury sports car manufacturer famously said, “Ferrari will always deliver one car less than the market demands”.
“Ferrari highlights a fundamental principle in luxury branding: the deliberate creation of scarcity,” says Jon Michail, CEO of corporate and personal brand image advisory Image Group International.
“This technique is not just about limiting supply but about crafting a positioning and image of exclusivity and unattainability that even Lamborghini could not beat.
“Scarcity creates urgency and elevates perceived “psychological” status, crucial elements for luxury brands. This perception is vital as it differentiates luxury brands from mass and mid-market options, reinforcing their unique value proposition and maintaining their premium and/or ultra-premium positioning.”
So, what’s next in the luxury sector? Experts predict luxury brands are likely to explore new and creative ways to further enhance their exclusivity and appeal.
“I see luxury brands are set to adopt more personalised and experiential techniques to enhance exclusivity and desirability,” says Brown. “A sophisticated online presence is now essential, but we’ll see luxury brands take more control over their sales channels, particularly online, by reducing distribution through online multi-brand retailers.
“This shift allows them to own the customer relationship which reinforces exclusivity and brand loyalty.”
As for the five-figure Birkin, retail insiders say only customers with an extensive purchase history with the French brand are offered the opportunity to buy one directly from a Hermès boutique.
However, pre-loved bags can often be found through online reselling websites such as priveporter.com (at the time of writing the lowest price Birkin available on priveporter.com was $AUD36,056).
According to Vogue, Hermès “boutiques have their own style offering, with infrequent deliveries and little notice as to which colourways or finishes will be available to purchase at any given moment. For this reason, customers who want a brand new bag should enquire in store and seek advice from Hermès sales experts”.
Even then, they can be hard to pin down, with Birkin bags, and the equally popular Kelly bag, subject to stringent quota systems worldwide.
Good luck.
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Administration officials have spoken to the airline industry, which has voiced concerns about the rising costs.
Former New Hampshire Gov. Chris Sununu delivered a warning to Treasury Secretary Scott Bessent during a recent visit to Washington: Already-high airfares will surge if the war in Iran doesn’t end soon.
Sununu, a Republican who represents some of the biggest airlines as president of the industry group Airlines for America, has for weeks sounded the alarm to Trump administration officials about the economic fallout from high jet fuel prices. The war, Sununu has argued, must come to a close soon, or things will get worse.
Administration officials have gotten the message.
Privately, President Trump’s advisers are increasingly worried that Republicans will pay a political price for the rising fuel costs, according to people familiar with the matter. Many of those advisers are eager to end the war, hoping prices will begin to moderate before November’s midterm elections.
The fallout from the U.S.-Israeli attack in late February has slowed traffic through the Strait of Hormuz, a vital shipping lane, triggering a sharp increase in oil, gasoline and jet-fuel prices.
That means consumers are grappling with high costs ahead of the summer travel season, as they consider vacation plans.
Sixty-three per cent of Americans said they put a great deal or a good amount of blame on Trump for the increase in gas prices, according to a new poll conducted by NPR, PBS and Marist.
More than 8 in 10 Americans said struggles at the gas pump are putting strain on their finances.
Jet-fuel prices roughly doubled in a matter of weeks after the war began, and they have remained high. Airlines have said that will add billions of dollars of additional expenses this year, squeezing profit margins.
U.S. airlines spent more than $5 billion on fuel in March—up 30% from a year earlier, according to government data.
Carriers have been raising ticket prices, hoping to pass the cost along to consumers, and they are culling flights that will no longer make money at higher price levels.
In March, the price of a U.S. domestic round-trip economy ticket rose 21% from a year earlier to $570, according to Airlines Reporting Corp., which tracks travel-agency sales.
So far, airlines have said the higher fares haven’t deterred bookings and they are hoping to recoup more of the fuel-cost increases as the year goes on.
Earlier this week, Trump said the current price of oil is “a very small price to pay for getting rid of a nuclear weapon from people that are really mentally deranged.”
Secretary of State Marco Rubio told reporters that if Iran got a nuclear weapon, the country would have more leverage to keep the strait closed and “make our gas prices like $9 a gallon or $8 a gallon.”
Trump has taken steps in recent days to bring the war to an end. Late Tuesday, the president paused a plan to help guide trapped commercial ships out of the Strait of Hormuz, expressing optimism that a deal could be reached with Iran to end the conflict.
Crude oil prices fell below $100 a barrel on Wednesday, after reports that Iran and the U.S. are working with mediators on a one-page framework to restart negotiations aimed at ending the conflict and opening the strait.
Sununu said Trump administration officials are conscious of the economic fallout from the war: “They get it…and I think that’s why they’re trying to get through the war as fast as they can.”
But he cautioned that it could take months for prices to return to prewar levels.
“Ticket prices won’t go down immediately” after the strait is fully reopened, Sununu said. “You’re looking at elevated ticket prices through the summer and fall because it takes a while for the prices to go down.”
Since the initial U.S.-Israeli attack in late February, Sununu has met in Washington with National Economic Council Director Kevin Hassett, representatives from the Transportation Department and senior White House officials.
A White House official confirmed that Hassett and Sununu have discussed the effect of increased fuel prices on the airline industry. The official said the conversation touched on how the industry can mitigate the impact of high jet fuel prices on consumers.
“The president and his entire energy team anticipated these short-term disruptions to the global energy markets from Operation Epic Fury and had a plan prepared to mitigate these disruptions,” White House spokeswoman Taylor Rogers said, pointing to the administration’s decision to waive a century-old shipping law in a bid to lower the cost of moving oil.
Rogers said the administration is working with industry representatives to “address their concerns, explore potential actions, and inform the president’s policy decisions.”
A Treasury Department spokesman pointed to Bessent’s recent comments on Fox News that the U.S. economy remains strong despite price increases. The spokesman said Treasury officials have met with airline executives, who have reaffirmed strong ticket bookings.
“We’re cognizant that this short-term move up in prices is affecting the American people, but I am also confident, on the other side of this, prices will come down very quickly,” Bessent told Fox News on Monday.
The war has already contributed to one casualty in the industry: Spirit Airlines. Company representatives have said they were forced to close the airline because the sustained surge in jet-fuel prices derailed the company’s plan to emerge from chapter 11 bankruptcy.
The Trump administration and Spirit failed to come to an agreement for the company to receive a financial lifeline of as much as $500 million from the federal government.
Transportation Secretary Sean Duffy has argued that the Iran war wasn’t the cause of Spirit’s demise, pointing to the company’s past financial struggles, as well as the Biden administration’s decision to challenge a merger with JetBlue.
Other budget airlines have also turned to the federal government for help since the U.S.-Israeli attack. A group of budget airlines last month sought $2.5 billion in financial assistance to offset higher fuel costs, and they separately wrote to lawmakers asking for relief from certain ticket taxes.
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