Shein’s Bargain-App Formula Crumbles Under Trump

The meteoric popularity among American shoppers of China-founded app Shein was greatly helped by duty-free shipping of its ultra-cheap fashion. After President Trump closed that option for Chinese goods, its clothes will now bear the full impact of his new tariffs.

The U.S. tariffs imposed on Wednesday and China’s retaliation throw a wet blanket over all goods trade between the two countries. For Shein, the additional impact of Trump’s move to end the so-called de mini m is exemption for China means a double hit and perhaps the most pivotal challenge for the fashion giant, whose links to China have long landed it at the center of U.S.-China tensions.

The fashion giant had already shifted its plans for an initial public offering from New York to London, where it had hoped to list by June. But Trump’s new tariffs on China and elimination of duty-free exemption for China on goods valued at $800 or less effective May 2 makes its prospects of going public at all increasingly dim.

The nimble supply chain that Shein prides itself on now faces enormous pressure to keep costs low.

“Shein will probably have to reinvent the wheel,” said Vinci Zhang , an analyst at research and analytics firm M Science. “It’s almost certain they will raise the price, otherwise they won’t survive.”

Shein didn’t respond to a request for comment.

Because Trump only ended the de minimis option for China, Shein could still ship wares to the U.S. tariff-free from other countries. Shein had encouraged some suppliers to move their factories to Vietnam, but Trump’s announcement last week of 46% tariffs on goods from Vietnam has undermined such efforts. On Wednesday, Trump authorized a 90-day delay on most tariffs while increasing tariffs on China.

Cathy Lin , who runs a Guangzhou-based contract manufacturer that supplies Shein and its Chinese rival Temu, has put on hold her plan to set up a factory in Vietnam. “Moving there might not be a once-and-for-all solution,” she said. Lin said she has found two partners in Macau and Vietnam who can temporarily help ship parcels to the U.S.

Trump first tried to end the duty-free exemption for China in February, but had to delay the crackdown to let the Commerce Department set up a system to process inspections and levies on the shipments. Shein, now based in Singapore, has argued that the de minimis exemption isn’t critical to its success. Nevertheless, during the two-month reprieve, Shein has scrambled to prepare.

Shein, whose clothing, on average, costs 20% to 35% less than fast-fashion rivals such as Zara and H&M , has raised prices on some items in the past two months. Eight sellers on Shein and Temu, which also increased some prices, said orders from the U.S. have fallen by 20% to 50% in March compared with January.

After Trump’s latest tariff announcement, Brian Luo , who runs a U.S. delivery company that helps companies such as Shein and Temu get parcels to U.S. customers, said the delivery orders he received for Monday plunged to 1,600 from a daily average of 4,000.

“Once the tariffs are added, people might shift back to Amazon , especially because their delivery speed is faster,” Luo said.

Under the new U.S. tariffs, apparel imported from China could face total levies close to 150%, according to Sheng Lu, professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware.

Shein has no customers in China, though it subcontracts with thousands of factories there to power its enormous selection of cheap apparel and respond to fleeting consumer tastes. The company has been diversifying its supply chain in the past few years and now also manufactures in Brazil and Turkey, closer to its consumers in North America and Europe.

In recent months, Shein has been in talks with manufacturers in the U.S. to produce some of its clothing there, people familiar with the matter said. More than one-third of Temu’s U.S. orders are now fulfilled by sellers with inventory in the U.S.

In a rare public comment, commerce officials in Guangzhou, where many Shein suppliers are based, told a Communist Party-controlled newspaper that Shein was increasing investments in China and denied that its suppliers are moving out of China.

Nonetheless, Goldman Sachs analysts on Monday lowered forecasts for Temu’s gross sales by as much as a third to a range of $63 billion to $84 billion.

Temu, owned by Chinese e-commerce company PDD Holdings , didn’t respond to a request for comment.

Last year, companies sent small packages worth $46 billion to the U.S. from China under the de minimis exception, representing 11% of U.S. imports from China, Nomura economists estimated.

While the U.S. is one of its biggest markets, Shein sells to more than 150 countries.

In a chat group on WeChat with more than 200 merchants who sell to American consumers on Shein or Temu, vendors raced to come up with contingency plans. “If I can’t sell to the U.S., that’s OK. There are still other good markets,” said Wang Xianwei , a kitchen-utensil seller in China.

But Shein has run into regulatory and political issues around the world. The European Union is also looking to close its own version of the de minimis provision, and some countries have already ended similar loopholes.

Shein’s revenue grew 19% to around $38 billion in 2024, below the increases of 40% or more that the company had seen in the past few years, people familiar with the retailer said.

Since its New York listing plans collapsed, Shein has strengthened its focus on compliance to meet political and regulatory challenges. Its London IPO application has been awaiting approval from Chinese and British regulators since last June.

“Trump’s tariffs and other policies are closing the window for the IPO,” said a person close to Beijing’s thinking.

Former New Hampshire Gov. Chris Sununu delivered a warning to Treasury Secretary Scott Bessent during a recent visit to Washington: Already-high airfares will surge if the war in Iran doesn’t end soon.

Sununu, a Republican who represents some of the biggest airlines as president of the industry group Airlines for America, has for weeks sounded the alarm to Trump administration officials about the economic fallout from high jet fuel prices. The war, Sununu has argued, must come to a close soon, or things will get worse.

Administration officials have gotten the message.

Privately, President Trump’s advisers are increasingly worried that Republicans will pay a political price for the rising fuel costs, according to people familiar with the matter. Many of those advisers are eager to end the war, hoping prices will begin to moderate before November’s midterm elections.

The fallout from the U.S.-Israeli attack in late February has slowed traffic through the Strait of Hormuz, a vital shipping lane, triggering a sharp increase in oil, gasoline and jet-fuel prices.

That means consumers are grappling with high costs ahead of the summer travel season, as they consider vacation plans.

Sixty-three per cent of Americans said they put a great deal or a good amount of blame on Trump for the increase in gas prices, according to a new poll conducted by NPR, PBS and Marist.

More than 8 in 10 Americans said struggles at the gas pump are putting strain on their finances.

Jet-fuel prices roughly doubled in a matter of weeks after the war began, and they have remained high. Airlines have said that will add billions of dollars of additional expenses this year, squeezing profit margins.

U.S. airlines spent more than $5 billion on fuel in March—up 30% from a year earlier, according to government data.

Carriers have been raising ticket prices, hoping to pass the cost along to consumers, and they are culling flights that will no longer make money at higher price levels.

In March, the price of a U.S. domestic round-trip economy ticket rose 21% from a year earlier to $570, according to Airlines Reporting Corp., which tracks travel-agency sales.

So far, airlines have said the higher fares haven’t deterred bookings and they are hoping to recoup more of the fuel-cost increases as the year goes on.

Earlier this week, Trump said the current price of oil is “a very small price to pay for getting rid of a nuclear weapon from people that are really mentally deranged.”

Secretary of State Marco Rubio told reporters that if Iran got a nuclear weapon, the country would have more leverage to keep the strait closed and “make our gas prices like $9 a gallon or $8 a gallon.”

Trump has taken steps in recent days to bring the war to an end. Late Tuesday, the president paused a plan to help guide trapped commercial ships out of the Strait of Hormuz, expressing optimism that a deal could be reached with Iran to end the conflict.

Crude oil prices fell below $100 a barrel on Wednesday, after reports that Iran and the U.S. are working with mediators on a one-page framework to restart negotiations aimed at ending the conflict and opening the strait.

Sununu said Trump administration officials are conscious of the economic fallout from the war: “They get it…and I think that’s why they’re trying to get through the war as fast as they can.”

But he cautioned that it could take months for prices to return to prewar levels.

“Ticket prices won’t go down immediately” after the strait is fully reopened, Sununu said. “You’re looking at elevated ticket prices through the summer and fall because it takes a while for the prices to go down.”

Since the initial U.S.-Israeli attack in late February, Sununu has met in Washington with National Economic Council Director Kevin Hassett, representatives from the Transportation Department and senior White House officials.

A White House official confirmed that Hassett and Sununu have discussed the effect of increased fuel prices on the airline industry. The official said the conversation touched on how the industry can mitigate the impact of high jet fuel prices on consumers.

“The president and his entire energy team anticipated these short-term disruptions to the global energy markets from Operation Epic Fury and had a plan prepared to mitigate these disruptions,” White House spokeswoman Taylor Rogers said, pointing to the administration’s decision to waive a century-old shipping law in a bid to lower the cost of moving oil.

Rogers said the administration is working with industry representatives to “address their concerns, explore potential actions, and inform the president’s policy decisions.”

A Treasury Department spokesman pointed to Bessent’s recent comments on Fox News that the U.S. economy remains strong despite price increases. The spokesman said Treasury officials have met with airline executives, who have reaffirmed strong ticket bookings.

“We’re cognizant that this short-term move up in prices is affecting the American people, but I am also confident, on the other side of this, prices will come down very quickly,” Bessent told Fox News on Monday.

The war has already contributed to one casualty in the industry: Spirit Airlines. Company representatives have said they were forced to close the airline because the sustained surge in jet-fuel prices derailed the company’s plan to emerge from chapter 11 bankruptcy.

The Trump administration and Spirit failed to come to an agreement for the company to receive a financial lifeline of as much as $500 million from the federal government.

Transportation Secretary Sean Duffy has argued that the Iran war wasn’t the cause of Spirit’s demise, pointing to the company’s past financial struggles, as well as the Biden administration’s decision to challenge a merger with JetBlue.

Other budget airlines have also turned to the federal government for help since the U.S.-Israeli attack. A group of budget airlines last month sought $2.5 billion in financial assistance to offset higher fuel costs, and they separately wrote to lawmakers asking for relief from certain ticket taxes.

Shein’s Bargain-App Formula Crumbles Under Trump

Chinese fashion giant faces a double whammy of steep U.S. tariffs and an end to its duty-free shipping.

Administration officials have spoken to the airline industry, which has voiced concerns about the rising costs.