Why the smart fashionistas have stopped buying new clothes
The resale market for designer clothing has never been stronger as women embrace personal style over trends
5 min
From the latest issue of Kanebridge Quarterly. Order your copy here.
Are you in the market for a classic Chanel 2.55 bag? Or perhaps you’re dreaming about that Zimmermann dress you should have snapped up in store a couple of months ago? Chances are you’re spending as much time scouring the resale market as you are a brand-new version as the lines between new and shop fresh stock blur. The rise in designer and luxury resale globally shows no sign of slowing down. Rather, it is one of the biggest growth areas in the fashion industry today.
According to US-based secondhand fashion platform ThredUp’s 2024 Resale Report, the global secondhand apparel market is set to reach US$350 billion by 2028 — which sees it growing three times faster than the overall apparel market. Further to this, it anticipates that next year, 10 percent of the global apparel market will be made up of secondhand goods.
“There are three key triggers,” says Lauren Kennedy of Australian designer and luxury resale platform, High End. “One of them is sustainability. People are more conscious now of how they’re consuming.”
Of the other factors, cost of living is one —especially with the increasing prices of luxury goods in particular — and the other is the push from younger generations, particularly Gen Z and also Millennials, who feel no stigma around buying secondhand and prefer an individual approach to style.
“Everyone now wants their unique style, and resale offers unique pieces,” says Kennedy. “I would love to go into someone’s wardrobe from 50 years ago and look at all their stuff, because it was made with quality. They really like discovering and finding those unique pieces that you can only get resale, not retail.”
High End was founded as a peer-to-peer Facebook group 10 years ago by Brooke Marks, and six months ago it transitioned to an app and website. Of the Australian brands most in demand, she says it’s Camilla and Marc, Scanlan Theodore, Alemais and Zimmermann.
“And in terms of international designers, the most popular brands on our platform, which do hold their value, are Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Celine, Chanel, Prada,” she says.
Miranda Gillespie founded the luxury resale platform Luxe-It-Fwd in Brisbane in 2016, focusing purely on handbags and accessories. For her site, Louis Vuitton handbags are “the absolute standout” for customers.
“There’s a Louis Vuitton bag that can appeal to everyone,” says Gillespie. “Also, from a pricing point of view, you can have entry-level Louis Vuittons, which might be $1,500, which is quite cheap for a (luxury) handbag. Whereas you can’t enter Chanel at that price point.
“Certainly there is a sustainability element to it, and wanting to make more sustainable fashion shopping choices,” she adds. “But underlying it all, I think it really does come back to economics and being financially more savvy. If someone, for example, can purchase a handbag which might have little to no signs of use and pay $1,000 or $2,000 less than in the store, then that becomes a very attractive economic proposition for them.”
Individual brands have been slower to embrace the resale economy, but as the segment continues to gain traction, some have finally started to enter the fray. While premium and luxury brands are often concerned about devaluing and cannibalising their new products, some have started to dip their toes in the resale waters. It can be a way to show their support for the circular economy, build customer loyalty, and also reap a small, additional, portion of their products’ value.
French It-girl favourite label Isabel Marant has taken matters into its own hands, offering resale items alongside current season in some stores, while also operating a dedicated resale website. Gucci and Alexander McQueen recently partnered with Vestiaire Collective (their parent company, Kering, has a 5 percent stake in the resale platform), while their stablemate, Balenciaga has partnered with Reflaunt.
In Australia, Airrobe is one platform that has fostered direct relationships with brands including Oroton, Ginger & Smart and P.E Nation. Very few brands have launched their own resale platform, but Kit Willow is one that has taken the lead. Willow founded the sustainably focused brand KitX in 2015, and although she is winding up its new collections, the brand’s resale platform, KitXchange, will continue to operate.
“When the concept of KitX started to be born, I always had that vision (to include resale) because people could then circulate what already exists,” says Willow. “The premise is the value of material and design, to reinvigorate it and recirculate it. And that was actually before (we knew) the statistics on how much we were throwing away, which has now been pushed to the forefront, but is also a massive problem on a daily basis.”
Those statistics are truly alarming. In Australia alone, 200,000 tonnes of clothing go into landfill each year. These are among the statistics that Seamless — the name for the National Clothing Stewardship Scheme, a consortium of stakeholders led by the Australian Fashion Council and endorsed by the federal government which commenced in July — is aiming to address, with an aim of circularity in fashion by 2030.
Resale will play its part in this vision for a circular economy. (It is worth noting that Seamless will also ask for a levy of 4 cents for each new item of clothing sold in Australia, which will go towards funding for circularity initiatives; Seamless is currently an opt-in for brands. France, on the other hand, has put in place legislation to try and stem the influx of fast fashion, imposing a €5 surcharge on each item from next year.)
While the resale segment is on a growth trajectory, many are keen to see what its future looks like for business and customers alike.
“It is a new industry and there’s a lot of innovation and a lot of movement,” says Kennedy. “So it will be interesting to see what type of businesses come out on top and profitable, because one of the biggest challenges as a business in the industry is profitability at scale. It costs a lot to run these type of marketplace businesses and marketplaces only really work at scale.”
She believes that even platforms like High End will start to be populated by high-volume sellers who operate as businesses themselves.
Willow believes that one of the reasons the segment will continue to grow is that with the acceleration of climate change and its impact on the environment, natural fibres such as wool, cotton and silk will themselves become more expensive, pushing up prices of virgin garments and thus pushing more consumers into the resale market.
“It makes it even more important for designers to design more timeless pieces and create better quality,” she says, “so that their pieces can be reworn and resold for years to come.”
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The Federal Budget may have softened some of its proposed tax reforms, but it has exposed a bigger issue: too many families are relying on wealth structures that no longer reflect the realities of modern life.
3 min
For many Australians, the 2026 Federal Budget initially felt like a direct challenge to the way wealth is created, held and transferred between generations.
The headlines were immediate: changes to capital gains tax, reforms to discretionary trusts, restrictions on negative gearing and increased scrutiny of investment structures. Unsurprisingly, affluent families, business owners and investors began asking the same question:
Is the way we hold our wealth still fit for purpose?
In recent days, the government has announced several significant amendments following industry consultation and public feedback, including exempting testamentary trusts from the proposed 30 per cent minimum tax and expanding capital gains tax concessions for small businesses.
The backdown is welcome. But it also highlights something much bigger.
This Budget has accelerated a conversation that many Australian families have been postponing for years.
The conversation is not really about tax. It is about wealth stewardship.
For decades, Australians have built wealth through businesses, property, investments and careful long-term planning. Yet many families have not revisited the legal structures surrounding those assets in years, sometimes decades.
We often see clients who have spent years building significant wealth, only to discover their legal arrangements no longer reflect their current circumstances.
Their children are now adults. They may own multiple properties.
They may have sold a business, entered a second marriage, become grandparents or accumulated digital assets that did not exist when their original estate plans were prepared.
The trust that distributes income may need to be reconsidered. The bucket company may no longer be so attractive.
The Budget has simply exposed a reality that already existed: wealth structures cannot remain static while life continues to evolve.
Importantly, trusts themselves are not the issue.
Trusts are legitimate planning tools that provide flexibility, protection and continuity. When used appropriately, they allow families to adapt to changing circumstances over time.
And neither is tax the issue, really. Getting the fundamentals right is more important for long-term, sustainable wealth than a few favourable tax treatments around the edges.
The real issue is complacency.
Too often, families create structures and assume the job is done. It isn’t.
Estate planning is no longer a document you sign once and file away in a drawer. It is an ongoing process that should evolve alongside your life.
We are also seeing a broader shift in how Australians define wealth itself. It is no longer just the family home and an investment portfolio.
Modern wealth includes businesses, digital assets, cryptocurrency, intellectual property, frequent flyer points and increasingly complex family arrangements.
At the same time, Australians are living longer than ever before, meaning wealth may need to support multiple generations simultaneously. This creates new responsibilities and new risks.
How do you help your children enter the property market without exposing family wealth to relationship breakdowns?
How do you structure wealth so that it remains a source of opportunity rather than future conflict?
These are the questions families should be asking now.
The recent debate surrounding testamentary trusts also serves as an important reminder that policy decisions can have unintended consequences for vulnerable Australians. It is encouraging that the government has listened to feedback and clarified its position.
But the lesson remains: the wealth landscape is changing.
Increasingly, governments, regulators and tax authorities are paying closer attention to how wealth is held and transferred. That means families cannot afford to adopt a “set-and-forget” approach to their structures.
The families who will be best placed for the future are not necessarily those with the greatest wealth.
They are the families with the greatest clarity. Clarity around ownership, succession and governance. And clarity around how wealth will transition from one generation to the next.
Ultimately, preserving wealth is not about avoiding change.
It is about preparing for it.
Because the greatest risk is not change itself.
It is losing the ability to respond to it.
Anthony Hunt is Co-Founder of Wealth Lawyers and former COO of Westpac Private Bank. He advises business owners, investors and affluent Australian families on wealth protection, succession planning and intergenerational wealth transfer
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