Why the smart fashionistas have stopped buying new clothes
The resale market for designer clothing has never been stronger as women embrace personal style over trends
5 min
From the latest issue of Kanebridge Quarterly. Order your copy here.
Are you in the market for a classic Chanel 2.55 bag? Or perhaps you’re dreaming about that Zimmermann dress you should have snapped up in store a couple of months ago? Chances are you’re spending as much time scouring the resale market as you are a brand-new version as the lines between new and shop fresh stock blur. The rise in designer and luxury resale globally shows no sign of slowing down. Rather, it is one of the biggest growth areas in the fashion industry today.
According to US-based secondhand fashion platform ThredUp’s 2024 Resale Report, the global secondhand apparel market is set to reach US$350 billion by 2028 — which sees it growing three times faster than the overall apparel market. Further to this, it anticipates that next year, 10 percent of the global apparel market will be made up of secondhand goods.
“There are three key triggers,” says Lauren Kennedy of Australian designer and luxury resale platform, High End. “One of them is sustainability. People are more conscious now of how they’re consuming.”
Of the other factors, cost of living is one —especially with the increasing prices of luxury goods in particular — and the other is the push from younger generations, particularly Gen Z and also Millennials, who feel no stigma around buying secondhand and prefer an individual approach to style.
“Everyone now wants their unique style, and resale offers unique pieces,” says Kennedy. “I would love to go into someone’s wardrobe from 50 years ago and look at all their stuff, because it was made with quality. They really like discovering and finding those unique pieces that you can only get resale, not retail.”
High End was founded as a peer-to-peer Facebook group 10 years ago by Brooke Marks, and six months ago it transitioned to an app and website. Of the Australian brands most in demand, she says it’s Camilla and Marc, Scanlan Theodore, Alemais and Zimmermann.
“And in terms of international designers, the most popular brands on our platform, which do hold their value, are Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Celine, Chanel, Prada,” she says.
Miranda Gillespie founded the luxury resale platform Luxe-It-Fwd in Brisbane in 2016, focusing purely on handbags and accessories. For her site, Louis Vuitton handbags are “the absolute standout” for customers.
“There’s a Louis Vuitton bag that can appeal to everyone,” says Gillespie. “Also, from a pricing point of view, you can have entry-level Louis Vuittons, which might be $1,500, which is quite cheap for a (luxury) handbag. Whereas you can’t enter Chanel at that price point.
“Certainly there is a sustainability element to it, and wanting to make more sustainable fashion shopping choices,” she adds. “But underlying it all, I think it really does come back to economics and being financially more savvy. If someone, for example, can purchase a handbag which might have little to no signs of use and pay $1,000 or $2,000 less than in the store, then that becomes a very attractive economic proposition for them.”
Individual brands have been slower to embrace the resale economy, but as the segment continues to gain traction, some have finally started to enter the fray. While premium and luxury brands are often concerned about devaluing and cannibalising their new products, some have started to dip their toes in the resale waters. It can be a way to show their support for the circular economy, build customer loyalty, and also reap a small, additional, portion of their products’ value.
French It-girl favourite label Isabel Marant has taken matters into its own hands, offering resale items alongside current season in some stores, while also operating a dedicated resale website. Gucci and Alexander McQueen recently partnered with Vestiaire Collective (their parent company, Kering, has a 5 percent stake in the resale platform), while their stablemate, Balenciaga has partnered with Reflaunt.
In Australia, Airrobe is one platform that has fostered direct relationships with brands including Oroton, Ginger & Smart and P.E Nation. Very few brands have launched their own resale platform, but Kit Willow is one that has taken the lead. Willow founded the sustainably focused brand KitX in 2015, and although she is winding up its new collections, the brand’s resale platform, KitXchange, will continue to operate.
“When the concept of KitX started to be born, I always had that vision (to include resale) because people could then circulate what already exists,” says Willow. “The premise is the value of material and design, to reinvigorate it and recirculate it. And that was actually before (we knew) the statistics on how much we were throwing away, which has now been pushed to the forefront, but is also a massive problem on a daily basis.”
Those statistics are truly alarming. In Australia alone, 200,000 tonnes of clothing go into landfill each year. These are among the statistics that Seamless — the name for the National Clothing Stewardship Scheme, a consortium of stakeholders led by the Australian Fashion Council and endorsed by the federal government which commenced in July — is aiming to address, with an aim of circularity in fashion by 2030.
Resale will play its part in this vision for a circular economy. (It is worth noting that Seamless will also ask for a levy of 4 cents for each new item of clothing sold in Australia, which will go towards funding for circularity initiatives; Seamless is currently an opt-in for brands. France, on the other hand, has put in place legislation to try and stem the influx of fast fashion, imposing a €5 surcharge on each item from next year.)
While the resale segment is on a growth trajectory, many are keen to see what its future looks like for business and customers alike.
“It is a new industry and there’s a lot of innovation and a lot of movement,” says Kennedy. “So it will be interesting to see what type of businesses come out on top and profitable, because one of the biggest challenges as a business in the industry is profitability at scale. It costs a lot to run these type of marketplace businesses and marketplaces only really work at scale.”
She believes that even platforms like High End will start to be populated by high-volume sellers who operate as businesses themselves.
Willow believes that one of the reasons the segment will continue to grow is that with the acceleration of climate change and its impact on the environment, natural fibres such as wool, cotton and silk will themselves become more expensive, pushing up prices of virgin garments and thus pushing more consumers into the resale market.
“It makes it even more important for designers to design more timeless pieces and create better quality,” she says, “so that their pieces can be reworn and resold for years to come.”
From elevated skincare to handcrafted home pieces, this year’s most thoughtful gifts go beyond the expected.
A haven for hedge-fund titans and Hollywood grandees, Greenwich is one of the world’s most expensive residential enclaves, where eye-watering prices meet unapologetic grandeur.
The lunar flyby would be the deepest humans have traveled in space in decades.
4 min
It’s go time for the highest-stakes mission at NASA in more than 50 years.
On April 1, the agency is set to launch four astronauts around the moon, the deepest human spaceflight since the final Apollo lunar landing in 1972.
The launch window for Artemis II , as the mission is called, opens at 6:24 p.m. ET.
National Aeronautics and Space Administration teams have been preparing the vehicles to depart from Florida’s Kennedy Space Center on the planned roughly 10-day trip. Crew members have trained for years for this moment.
Reid Wiseman, the NASA astronaut serving as mission commander, said he doesn’t fear taking the voyage. A widower, he does worry at times about what he is putting his daughters through.
“I could have a very comfortable life for them,” Wiseman said in an interview last September.
“But I’m also a human, and I see the spirit in their eyes that is burning in my soul too. And so we’ve just got to never stop going.”
Wiseman’s crewmates on Artemis II are NASA’s Victor Glover and Christina Koch, as well as Canadian Space Agency astronaut Jeremy Hansen.
What are the goals for Artemis II?
The biggest one: Safely fly the crew on vehicles that have never carried astronauts before.
The towering Space Launch System rocket has the job of lofting a vehicle called Orion into space and on its way to the moon.
Orion is designed to carry the crew around the moon and back. Myriad systems on the ship—life support, communications, navigation—will be tested with the astronauts on board.
SLS and Orion don’t have much flight experience. The vehicles last flew in 2022, when the agency completed its uncrewed Artemis I mission .
How is the mission expected to unfold?
Artemis II will begin when SLS takes off from a launchpad in Florida with Orion stacked on top of it.
The so-called upper stage of SLS will later separate from the main part of the rocket with Orion attached, and use its engine to set up the latter vehicle for a push to the moon.
After Orion separates from the upper stage, it will conduct what is called a translunar injection—the engine firing that commits Orion to soaring out to the moon. It will fly to the moon over the course of a few days and travel around its far side.
Orion will face a tough return home after speeding through space. As it hits Earth’s atmosphere, Orion will be flying at 25,000 miles an hour and face temperatures of 5,000 degrees as it slows down. The capsule is designed to land under parachutes in the Pacific Ocean, not far from San Diego.
Is it possible Artemis II will be delayed?
Yes.
For safety reasons, the agency won’t launch if certain tough weather conditions roll through the Cape Canaveral, Fla., area. Delays caused by technical problems are possible, too. NASA has other dates identified for the mission if it doesn’t begin April 1.
Who are the astronauts flying on Artemis II?
The crew will be led by Wiseman, a retired Navy pilot who completed military deployments before joining NASA’s astronaut corps. He traveled to the International Space Station in 2014.
Two other astronauts will represent NASA during the mission: Glover, an experienced Navy pilot, and Koch, who began her career as an electrical engineer for the agency and once spent a year at a research station in the South Pole. Both have traveled to the space station before.
Hansen is a military pilot who joined Canada’s astronaut corps in 2009. He will be making his first trip to space.
Koch’s participation in Artemis II will mark the first time a woman has flown beyond orbits near Earth. Glover and Hansen will be the first African-American and non-American astronauts, respectively, to do the same.
What will the astronauts do during the flight?
The astronauts will evaluate how Orion flies, practice emergency procedures and capture images of the far side of the moon for scientific and exploration purposes (they may become the first humans to see parts of the far side of the lunar surface). Health-tracking projects of the astronauts are designed to inform future missions.
Those efforts will play out in Orion’s crew module, which has about two minivans worth of living area.
On board, the astronauts will spend about 30 minutes a day exercising, using a device that allows them to do dead lifts, rowing and more. Sleep will come in eight-hour stretches in hammocks.
There is a custom-made warmer for meals, with beef brisket and veggie quiche on the menu.
Each astronaut is permitted two flavored beverages a day, including coffee. The crew will hold one hourlong shared meal each day.
The Universal Waste Management System—that’s the toilet—uses air flow to pull fluid and solid waste away into containers.
What happens after Artemis II?
Assuming it goes well, NASA will march on to Artemis III, scheduled for next year. During that operation, NASA plans to launch Orion with crew members on board and have the ship practice docking with lunar-lander vehicles that Elon Musk’s SpaceX and Jeff Bezos’ Blue Origin have been developing. The rendezvous operations will occur relatively close to Earth.
NASA hopes that its contractors and the agency itself are ready to attempt one or more lunar landing missions in 2028. Many current and former spaceflight officials are skeptical that timeline is feasible.
Warmer minimalism, tactile materials and wellness focused layouts are redefining luxury interiors as homeowners design for comfort, connection and lasting appeal.
Rugged coastal drives and fireside drams define a slow, indulgent journey through Scotland’s far north.
