Luxury Retailers Are Buying Out Their Landlords
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Luxury Retailers Are Buying Out Their Landlords

By KATE KING
Sat, Feb 17, 2024 7:00amGrey Clock 3 min

Luxury retailers, flush with cash, are spending big on real estate in the world’s most expensive and exclusive shopping corridors.

In New York City, Prada recently agreed to buy the building that houses its Fifth Avenue store as well as the building next door for more than $800 million. Gucci’s parent company, Kering, is also paying nearly $1 billion for a 115,000-square-foot retail space a few blocks south.

Luxury behemoth LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton , meanwhile, is in discussions to purchase the Fifth Avenue retail space occupied by Bergdorf Goodman’s men’s store, according to a person familiar with the matter.

This activity follows a flurry of purchases in Europe, where high-end retailers have snapped up real estate on high streets including Avenue Montaigne in Paris and London’s New Bond Street in recent years.

Luxury’s real-estate shopping spree shows that retailers are using their considerable cash to free themselves from the control of landlords and plant their flags on streets where they want a long-term presence.

“The rents that the luxury retailers were paying on Fifth and in other prime locations were simply astronomical,” said Eric Menkes , co-chair of leasing for the New York-based law firm Adler & Stachenfeld. “There comes a point in time when these retailers looked in the mirror and said, ‘Why am I making my landlord rich?’”

Retail rents on upper Fifth Avenue haven’t surpassed pre pandemic levels, but they averaged $2,000 a square foot over the past year, making the corridor the most expensive retail destination in the world, according to real-estate firm Cushman & Wakefield.

High-end retailers renewing their leases are often subject to the biggest rent increases, because they don’t want to leave well-known, successful addresses and pay for expensive build-outs at new stores.

“You don’t want to give up that location,” Menkes said. “And your landlord knows that.”

While the most recent eye-catching deals have been signed in New York and Europe, luxury companies are also buying buildings elsewhere. The French fashion house Chanel paid $63 million for a building on Post Street in San Francisco in 2021, the same year LVMH bought a hotel in Beverly Hills.

Chanel selectively acquires real estate “to protect its long-term presence in key cities around the world, and secure prime locations for luxury retail,” a spokesperson said.

While real-estate purchases so far appear concentrated in the most exclusive shopping corridors, luxury retailers are also signing leases in new markets and for bigger footprints to accommodate their swelling collections as well as new offerings such as restaurants and bars.

A surge in shopping for luxury goods powered the world’s largest luxury retailers to record profits in recent years. Sales growth has since slowed, but LVMH, which owns 75 brands including Dior and Hennessy, still reported nearly $94 billion in sales in 2023, beating analysts’ forecasts and sending the company’s stock price soaring in European trading .

“The premium luxury groups have so much cash on their balance sheet,” said Eric Le Goff , vice chairman and head of luxury for the brokerage Retail by Mona. For companies not contemplating acquisitions, “why not deploy the cash into real estate where you know you’re going to be there, hopefully for the next 100 years?”

In addition to cash, well-performing retailers have the option of floating corporate bonds to pay for their real-estate purchases at a lower rate than the traditional real-estate investor could get for a bank mortgage, according to Will Silverman , a managing director at Eastdil Secured, a real-estate investment-banking firm.

“The spread between where they can borrow and where a traditional real-estate investor can borrow, might be several percentage points apart,” Silverman said. That spread has never been wider in memory, he added.

This dynamic could mean luxury retailers are competing mainly against each other for real estate at the most desirable locations.

Luxury companies tend to cluster, so once one deal is signed, “usually that causes others to all jump in and want to be in the market, which then causes demand to increase and prices to rise,” said Andrew Goldberg , vice chairman at real-estate brokerage CBRE.



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In Mexico, a Moody Mountain Home With Major Altitude

The owners spent $73,000 on the land, plus another $475,000 building their vacation house

By J.S. MARCUS
Thu, Oct 10, 2024 4 min

Lorena Ramos and Carlos Moss live and work about 7,500 feet above sea level in the high-plateau megalopolis of Mexico City. But when it came time to commission a vacation home, they took it up a notch, altitude-wise. They built a home about 2,000 feet higher in an area known as the Corridor de la Montaña, or Mountain Corridor, in the state of Hidalgo.

Ramos, a 35-year-old sales director, and Moss, a 38-year-old executive in the construction industry, bought their steep 1/3-acre lot in 2021 for about $73,000. Then they spent roughly $475,000 to build and furnish a new house, working with Mexico City architect Rodrigo Saavedra Pérez-Salas. His design, using a cantilever, suspends the two-storey structure off the side of a densely wooded slope. From the inside, it can feel like a vast, floating treehouse.

undefined They named the property after their boxer, Oruç, now 11, and initially planned to use the home to entertain friends on weekends and holidays, outfitting the lower level with a funky bar. The three bedrooms—some equipped with bunk beds—and three bathrooms can accommodate up to eight people.

But this summer, less than a year after finishing construction, they had their son, Nicolás. That means they have to make some changes to babyproof the house. “We will have to do something,” says Ramos.

The vacation home is part of the first wave of development on the site of what was once a sprawling private estate. The property sits in Mexico’s Sierra de Pachuca mountain range, part of the vast Sierra Madre Oriental that runs along the east of the country. Their area is marked by atmospheric mists and a lengthy rainy season.

For Saavedra, the architect, the hard choice wasn’t where to place the house—a clearing in the woods, in the middle of the lot, was just about the only spot—but how to access the house once it was built. The most direct route would have meant seeing a house sticking out of the woods, says the 35-year-old founder and principal of Saavedra Arquitectos. Instead, he devised what he calls “a narrative” that leads visitors over a bridge, then down and around a series of winding stairs and through a masonry door that acts as a kind of ceremonial portal to the house. When visitors first arrive on the lot, all they see is tree. As they descend and approach the house itself, they are given a tour of the exterior of the building, while glimpsing the evocative mountain terrain beyond and below.

The couple chose moody interiors to play off local conditions, with lots of exposed steel beams, steel-tinted concrete, dark wood and glass walls that let tree-filtered light stream in. A spare open stairwell and thin inner and outer railings add to the minimalist flare.

All this added atmosphere came at a cost. The couple spent about $94,000 on steel, which includes the bridge and the costly cantilever.

Intent on a sustainable home, they managed to reuse what another homeowner might regard as outright waste. They have stored firewood for the great room in leftover steel girders, fashioned into a Brutalist rack, and they used leftover wood from their board-formed concrete molds as paneling in the primary bedroom. Most recently, they have installed a rainwater collection system, with a cistern placed uphill from the house, and they now use the bounty for everything from washing to drinking.

Though Casa Oruç is surrounded by trees, Saavedra managed to build the whole 2,400-square-foot house by only cutting down a handful. This ship-in-a-bottle effect is apparent in an upstairs deck, which incorporates two oyamel firs, a species native to the mountains of central and southern Mexico. Downstairs, the bar area is built around one of the firs, set off by a glass enclosure.

The open-plan kitchen, which Ramos helped design, was a splurge of about $34,000. The couple spent about the same amount on the glass doors and windows—a cost most apparent in the primary bedroom, which has glazing on three sides.

Being nearly 9,500 feet above sea level means the couple can do without air conditioning, and even though it rarely gets below freezing, heating is a must for much of the year. They spent around $15,660 on an electrical heating system, which, depending on where they are in the house, radiates from either the floor or the ceiling. They also spent some $10,500 on two fireplaces—gas-burning for the bedroom, and wood-burning for the great room’s main sitting area. They use them for heat and for added coziness, says Moss.

The couple have kept their lot as wild as possible, putting their landscaping budget at less than $1,000. And they can tour the area’s rough and wild terrain starting right on their property, which contains a few dramatic rock formations. Though their home is nearly as far above sea level as the taller peaks of Montana’s Glacier National Park, the spot is more bucolic than dramatic. The house is high up, concedes Moss, “but not ridiculously high,” invoking a category that for him starts at about 16,000 feet.

Now, looking ahead to the end of the year, when Nicolás will start to crawl, they are set to invest around $3,000 to babyproof. This will include installing tempered glass to close off the bare-bones railings of their main terrace, located off the upper floor’s great room, and protecting the exposed inside stairwell connecting the great room above with the bar area below.

When the baby came, they hadn’t yet decided on blinds or curtains in the primary bedroom, which turned out to be a benefit. “We get to see all the different shades of light—when it’s getting dark, then when the sun comes up,” says Ramos, who appreciates these subtle changes throughout the day. Perhaps her baby does, too. “I always give Nicolás his first feed while in bed, and he loves staring outside,” she says.

Many new arrivals to this altitude might be gasping, but little Nicolás is doing just fine. He likes to “contemplate the view of the sky and tree tops from our laps,” says his mother.

Foundation and framing:

$169,725 (including masonry)

Steel (including cantilever):

$94,000

Kitchen:

$34,000

Bathrooms:

$18,500

Landscaping:

$780

Fireplaces:

$10,450

Electrical work:

$27,260

Floors (including outdoor decks):

$25,000

Glazing (glass doors and windows):

$34,000

Lighting:

$3,100

MOST POPULAR
11 ACRES ROAD, KELLYVILLE, NSW

This stylish family home combines a classic palette and finishes with a flexible floorplan

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Just 55 minutes from Sydney, make this your creative getaway located in the majestic Hawkesbury region.

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