Expert Reveals Bordeaux 2022 Vintage Cellar Essentials (and they are exquisite!)

There are Bordeaux drops and then there are Bordeaux moments. This is the latter. The 2022 vintage has arrived through LANGTONS with depth across communes and enough quality to satisfy both the curious and the die-hard.

Here is your guide to what deserves a place in the cellar, and in years to come, your dining table.

1. Château Carbonnieux Blanc 2022, Graves, $110

The story of the legendary white of Château Carbonnieux Blanc (Graves, $110) stretches back to the 18th century when, thanks to its crystal clarity, it was introduced to the Sultan of Constantinople’s palace disguised as ‘mineral water from Carbonnieux. Today, the wine retains that luminous freshness in youth but develops dried and candied fruit characters with maturity, making it one of the most versatile whites in the region. This is a wine that can be drunk now through to 2029, so not a long termer.

2. Château Figeac 2022, St-Émilion, $850

If Carbonnieux speaks of crystalline youth, Château Figeac (St-Émilion, $850) speaks of longevity. Few estates can match its claim to 2000 years of continuous occupation, and the 2022 vintage bears that gravitas. Deeply garnet in colour, Cabernet Sauvignon shines here with notes of blackcurrant, blueberry, lilac, tobacco and bay leaf. On the palate, the wine is elegant and mineral, yet vibrantly alive. It’s a stunning effort that will reward those with patience – I’d suggest drinking from 2034–2060. It’s a great investment wine given Figeac’s ascent, too.

3. Château Gazin 2022, Pomerol, $235

In Pomerol, the quiet achiever is Château Gazin ($235), whose neighbours happen to be Petrus and L’Evangile. The 2022 shows deep crimson colour, with aromas of violet, musky plum, roasted chestnut and mocha. Classically proportioned, it offers a palate of ripe black fruits, chalky tannins and mid-palate depth that places it among the appellation’s most compelling releases. This wine sees its best drinking between 2029 and 2040.

4. Château Palmer 2022, Margaux, $1,050

Further south in Margaux, Château Palmer ($1,050) continues its reputation as a ‘Super Second’, officially ranked a Third Growth but revered as the equal of the First Growths. The 2022 is abundant in blackberry jam, chocolate, lavender and smoke, a wine of sheer extract and richness with remarkable intensity. It is best from 2035 and should be showing nicely to 2065. It’s a wine nipping at the heels of the Firsts and a wonderful investment opportunity.”

5. Château Haut-Bailly 2022, Pessac-Léognan, $415

Another of Bordeaux’s historic properties, Château Haut-Bailly (Pessac-Léognan, $415), dates to the mid-15th century. Its 2022 vintage shows blackcurrant pastille, violet and graphite, with a refreshing yet dense palate that finishes chalky and minerally. It is incredibly elegant now, so try from 2030–2045 with ease. A wine worth buying 6–12 bottles of to watch this ‘value’ Bordeaux evolve in the cellar over time.

6. Château Pontet-Canet 2022, Pauillac, $330

The Pauillac commune offers two contrasting but equally celebrated estates. Château Pontet-Canet ($330), founded in 1725, is full-bodied and packed with ripe black fruits supported by finely integrated tannins. The wine is remarkably compelling now, but best after 2029 through to 2045. It’s also a hit in the secondary market amongst speculators.

7. Château Lafite-Rothschild 2022, Pauillac, $1,950

Then there is Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac, $1,950), perhaps the most recognised name in the Médoc. The 2022 vintage has immense grip and presence, offering loganberry, blueberry, wet stones, and forest floor. For me, this is one of the definitive wines of the vintage. It’s one of the world’s most collected and cellared wines. Best from 2034–2070+ and is a triumph.

8. Château Montrose 2022, St-Estèphe, $595

North in St-Estèphe, Château Montrose ($595) demonstrates why this Second Growth is often regarded as a rival to the First Growths. Ample blackberry, cassis and briary fruits meet velvety tannins and cedar, creating a wine of both richness and precision. The wine is fine, aromatic and worth the investment. Most joy to be extracted from 2033 onwards with a 25-year satisfaction window.

9. Château Suduiraut 2022, Sauternes, $99

The sweet wines of Bordeaux complete the spectrum. Château Suduiraut (Sauternes, $99), a neighbour to d’Yquem, delivers a 2022 that is full of marmalade, saffron, lime and orange zest. Its sweetness is cut with a lifted bitterness that lends focus. This wine is showing beautifully now and best from 2028–2035+.

10. Château Cos d’Estournel 2022, St-Estèphe, $690

Finally, another St-Estèphe giant, Château Cos d’Estournel ($690), speaks with intensity and power. A blend dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the 2022 is tannic, commanding and built for the long haul like every vintage of Cos.

OpenAI says it is scrapping the release of its next-generation AI model over safety concerns that researchers raised during internal testing, in one of the clearest signs so far that agent misbehavior could stymie the industry’s rapid progression.

The move follows a summer punctuated by reports of artificial-intelligence systems industrywide going rogue, and marks a rare case of a major AI developer ditching a new release because of safety concerns.

The company had planned to launch the model, known as GPT-6.1 Astra, in the coming days or weeks, aiming for an October debut. The model was more capable than the company’s previous models in completing challenging tasks from end-to-end without human assistance, as well as writing.

The company instead will focus on improving the safety of future models, which it expects to be even more capable.

Saachi Jain, OpenAI’s head of safety systems, said in an interview that GPT-6.1 Astra regressed in two areas. Compared with its predecessor, GPT-6 Astra, the model performed poorly on tests measuring alignment, or how well the model adheres to what humans would like it to do. Specifically, GPT-6.1 Astra showed higher levels of deception: It wasn’t always honest about telling users of the actions it did or didn’t take.

Another issue was what OpenAI calls “scope authorization,” meaning that GPT-6.1 Astra would push ahead on a task without asking the user for permission, and would at times reach for external tools and services even if it might be unsafe.

“For anything regarding safety and alignment, there’s a trade off,” Jain said. “You really do need to find what’s the right line between staying within scope, but also avoiding laziness in terms of how the model actually pursues tasks even when it hits friction.”

OpenAI CEO Sam Altman attended a United Nations Security Council meeting about AI last week. Alexi J. Rosenfeld/Getty Images

While GPT-6.1 Astra improved in areas such as “model laziness,” Jain said it didn’t quite meet OpenAI’s bar for safety and alignment, so the company decided not to launch the model publicly.

The announcement comes one day ahead of OpenAI’s annual developer conference in San Francisco. In the past, OpenAI has used the conference as an opportunity to launch new models and services that reduce costs for software developers—a segment the ChatGPT-maker competes with rival AI company Anthropic to win over.

In recent weeks, OpenAI and Anthropic have called on industry partners to slow down the development of cutting-edge AI models and invest in safety standards, noting they will temper the pace of their own internal AI progress.

OpenAI says it is working to investigate a range of agent security incidents that it has discovered in recent months, and address the safety issues underneath them. As part of the work, the company has implemented a new monitoring system to catch AI-agent misbehavior more quickly, and started requiring engineers to use stronger security guardrails for testing its AI systems.

Earlier this summer hundreds of OpenAI’s internal agents, which were tasked with completing a cybersecurity test, ended up hacking into the AI company Hugging Face. Since then, high-profile organizations such as the Australian government and United Nations discovered that OpenAI’s agents used similar, but less extensive, techniques to gain access to their websites.

Many of the publicly known agent-security incidents involved OpenAI’s internal AI models that were never slated for public release.

Last week, OpenAI said it paused training on its most capable AI models after an AI agent slipped through a gap in the company’s internet restrictions to query a public chatbot. The company said its new monitoring systems flagged the incident within 15 minutes, and training on these models remains paused.

GPT-6.1 Astra isn’t one of those models, but a different case, the company said.

“We want to make sure our model development is safe no matter whether that’s in the company, or when we ship it to users,” Jain said. “But when we ship it to users, we have an extremely high bar in terms of safety and alignment.”

While the company decided not to ship GPT-6.1 Astra, it hopes to use the same base model to do additional reinforcement learning runs, and create future generations of its GPT-6 models.

OpenAI plans to conduct several deep dives to identify the root cause of the problems identified in GPT-6.1 Astra, Jain said. The work includes ensuring that OpenAI’s reinforcement learning environments are rewarding the right type of behavior, Jain added, though she noted the company would investigate all stages of model development.

AI companies have begun to draw scrutiny from policymakers and public officials, who are paying attention to the rapid development of the technology. Later this week, a Senate subcommittee is holding a hearing with third party AI researchers titled, “Rogue AI: Securing the Homeland Against AI Agent Attacks.”

Florida Attorney General James Uthmeier, a Republican, sued OpenAI in June, claiming that the company and Chief Executive Sam Altman knowingly released an unsafe product and ignored warnings that it could harm users.

In a motion for temporary injunction filed Monday, Uthmeier sought to prevent OpenAI from developing new AI models without third-party approved safeguards, stop ChatGPT from soliciting user engagement and limit the company’s ability to advertise ChatGPT as safe.

Tech companies claim they “cannot stop barreling forward with their potentially civilization-ending endeavors unless they are forced to do so by the government,” Uthmeier said in the filing. “The Florida Attorney General is answering your cry for help.”

An OpenAI spokeswoman said that people want to know AI is being developed safely, “and that starts with what companies like ours do ourselves.”

“Governments have an important role to play in setting robust safety standards for AI, and we’re committed to working with Florida and other states on advancing pragmatic AI policies that apply to the entire AI industry—not just one company,” she said.