Fashion’s Boring-and-Expensive Era Is Over

Not long ago, designer Jonathan Anderson attended a music festival where he surveyed the crowd and thought, Now this is where all the fashion has been lurking.

“I saw more people dressing more in high fashion than actually what was happening in fashion,” said Anderson , who designs the British clothing brand JW Anderson, as well as LVMH’s Loewe.

The free expression of these festival goers stuck with Anderson as it clashed with the risk-shy attitude that has guided much of luxury fashion in recent years. “I wonder,” said Anderson this past weekend in Milan, “has fashion become so conservative whereas what’s happening out there is actually way more avant-garde?”

Just a couple of years ago in Milan, “quiet luxury ” was on the tip of everyone’s tongue. This collocation was a simplistic shorthand for where fashion was going: pricey but prim; light on logos but heavy on the wallet; all cashmere everything in grey, beige, navy.

Fashion is a creative industry and designers can only cup their mouths for so long. At the latest edition of Milan men’s fashion week, shouts in the form of new, notice-me clothes broke out from the runways.

“People want uniqueness, maybe they want something which is challenging somehow,” said Anderson, speaking after the latest JW Anderson show, which was widely held up as the most successful collection of a muddled Milanese sprint.

Highlights included winsome cardigans with children’s book depictions of London terrace houses, leather jackets contorted by ski-slope-like hems and a kitschy sweater showing a smirking pint of Guinness—an upmarket riff on a Dublin tourist souvenir.

The day after Anderson’s show, came the surprise online release of a bulging 171-outfit lookbook from Valentino, the first stab from the label’s new creative director Alessandro Michele, who helped lift Gucci to a more than $10-billion brand before leaving in 2022.

At Gucci, Michele ushered in a maximalist fashion moment, and based on this initial showing, his taste for theatrics is intact. Against a backdrop of winter-mint curtains, feather-haired models (often wearing gigundo nerd glasses and hoops of pearls) sported floppy dog-ear ties, Kermit-green suits and tapestry prints. Flipping through the collection, all the tired but fitting Michele comparisons came rushing back: Wes Anderson films, kooky grandmothers and leopard-clad psych-rock bands.

Valentino, which is part-owned by Kering, also made its commercial intentions clear by sending out 93 close-up photos spotlighting easy-to-buy accessories like V-logoed sandals and rectangular handbags.

Notably, Sabato de Sarno, the still newish creative director who replaced Michele at Gucci, seemed to be shrugging off his own restraints. Neither De Sarno nor François-Henri Pinault, CEO of Gucci parent company Kering, spoke to the press after the show, but the collection was a departure from the brand’s recent strategy of focusing on classic, trend-agnostic pieces that cater to older, wealthier clients.

Model on the runway at the Gucci fashion show during Milan Fashion Week Menswear Spring/Summer 2025 held at Triennale di Milano on June 17, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD via Getty Images)

De Sarno’s surf-inspired offering bounded between skin-revealing mesh polo shirts, skimpy thigh-high shorts and camp-collared shirts with blooming hibiscus flowers prints. It would be hard to imagine much of it on anyone over 29. (Actor Paul Mescal, 28, was already in the front row in a pair of those shorty shorts.)

Youthful abandon was the theme at Gucci’s mightiest Milanese competitor, Prada. “Sometimes when you get older you start to overthink a lot and you limit yourself,” said Raf Simons , who is co-creative of the brand with Miuccia Prada , the grand doyenne of Italian fashion. “When you are young, you just go. We like that spirit.”

Models wore navel-exposing shrunken sweaters and pre-wrinkled sportcoats, a seeming nod to teens who haven’t yet learned the wonders of ironing. A lurid palette of hot pink and electric blue spoke to juvenile fashion experimentation.

Throughout the long weekend in Milan, the feeling settled in that this new, shoutier tone was a necessary course correction during an unsteady period for the apparel industry, and really, Europe at large.

The chatter of the front row centred on this month’s European Union elections which saw a surge in support for right-wing candidates, catching pundits and leaders like French President Emmanuel Macron by surprise. Inflation also remains stubbornly high.

Pressingly, for the fashion world, some of the world’s largest luxury labels have been reporting a glut of unsold products and a dearth of shoppers. Past strategies don’t seem to be working and one could tell that brands were ready to try anything to spur shoppers to spend a bit more.

Even at Zegna, a label so synonymous with quiet luxury that the cast of “Succession” wore it on that money-mad show, the clothes were more conspicuous. In between its Learjet-bound sotto voce suits, one found vivacious coral patterned jackets in blue and yellow.

“For sure playing more with colours and prints, we had fun,” said Zegna’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori following his show. “It’s a sense of freedom that I wanted to express.”

The 2024 Maserati GranCabrio, the company’s new convertible and a complement to the GranTurismo coupe introduced in 2022, is available with either V6 power (the Trofeo model) or batteries (the Folgore).

That means the buyer has a big choice to make. The cars look quite a bit alike, but they’re radically different under the hood. They’re not far apart in price, though: The Trofeo is US$192,000 and the Folgore around US$205,000 (plus US$2,000 in destination charges for each).

The electric is unique in the marketplace as a four-place electric convertible supercar. Maserati also says it’s the fastest 100% electric convertible, but there isn’t much competition. Performance is fully competitive with the existing Folgore GT coupe. The convertible can hit 62 miles per hour in 2.8 seconds, with 277 miles of range (in the lenient European WLTP rating). The top speed is 180 mph.

The GranCabrio has no less than three 300-kilowatt electric motors (one in the front, two in the rear), which work with inverters derived from the Formula E electric racing series to give the car a total of 750 horsepower at the wheels. The battery, at the bottom of the car, is rated at 92.5 kilowatt-hours.

Maserati did its convertible upright. The top is beautifully finished and easy to put down, in 14 seconds, at speeds of up to 31 mph (though the on-screen control is a little confusing to use). A neck warmer allows the car to be used even in fairly inclement weather, and there’s a wind stopper that can go behind the front seats. Having to fit a top in the trunk area doesn’t seriously compromise rear-seat legroom, which is generous for this class of car. The trunk isn’t huge, but if the top is up a flap can be moved to increase luggage space.

Buyers of the Folgore can choose an interior special to the car, with soft-touch seat sections made from Econyl, a recycled nylon product made from (among other sources) used fishing nets, as well as remnants via fabric and carpet manufacturers. Reprogrammable laser edging means that customers can choose custom patterns for their seats.

Buyers of the internal-combustion model get a Trofeo powered by a three-liter, 542-horsepower twin-turbo V6 Nettuno motor derived from the high-performance powerplant on the MC20 supercar. The gas version of the convertible is a bit slower to accelerate than the EV, with zero to 62 taking 3.6 seconds. The top speed is higher, though, 196 mph. Seeing the four purposeful exhaust exits on the Trofeo, you might expect a mighty roar, but in fact both GranCabrios are pretty quiet. They’re proper Maseratis that don’t disturb the neighbors.

Both Trofeo and Folgore use 20-inch wheels up front and 21-inch in back, with multiple designs.

Roberto Cusano, responsible for GT and GranTurismo product planning, says the car offers a unique combination of performance and comfort, while also being “a real and authentic four-seater car that can carry friends and family.”

But it’s also good for thrills, according to Maserati chief designer Klaus Busse. “This is only the second generation of the GT,” Busse says. “And if you want to drive from Italy to Hamburg, you’d pick a stylish and comfortable car that could also work in a side trip to the [German racing track] Nürburgring for a hot lap without looking silly. That’s the Maserati GranTurismo.”

The second generation of the GT has obvious antecedents to the first, something Busse says was intentional. The company still uses old-world methods in shaping body panels and fenders that have some legacy with Maserati road cars such as the 3500 GT, first shown in Geneva circa 1957, he says.

“We wanted to make sure the convertible looked good open or closed, so the silhouette of the convertible with the top up is very similar to the coupe,” Busse says. There are minor differences in the appearance of the two versions of GranCabrio, and slightly different wheels. The EV obviously loses the intercooler and exhaust pipes.

A Multimillion-Dollar Electric Boat

Maserati appears all-in on using electric power for its vehicles, on land or at sea.

The introduction of the GranTurismo on the shores of Lago Maggiore also gave Maserati a chance to show off its €2.5 million (US$2.67 million) Tridente electric boat. The unique example floating at the dock had pearlescent (and copper) finish that changed color depending on the light hitting it.

Built at the Hodgdon Yachts shipyard in Maine from a design jointly developed by Maserati and Britain-based electric boat company Vita Power, the Tridente, with 600 horsepower from twin electric motors, cruises at 25 knots and has a top speed of 40 knots. To keep weight down, the Tridente has a carbon-fiber superstructure and a fiberglass hull. The single-layer battery pack is rated at 250 kilowatt-hours, and delivers a cruising range of 31 to 43 miles.

The highly aerodynamic 34-foot day boat (or superyacht tender) can recharge in as little as an hour. It has eight-passenger seating, and an enclosed cabin under the front deck that includes a bed and toilet. Only this one has been built to date, but given nine months another one could be commissioned, says James Essex, an electric systems engineer with Vita Power.

Fashion’s Boring-and-Expensive Era Is Over

From Gucci to Valentino, designers have a new ethos: Fun