Fashion’s Boring-and-Expensive Era Is Over
Kanebridge News
Share Button

Fashion’s Boring-and-Expensive Era Is Over

From Gucci to Valentino, designers have a new ethos: Fun

By JACOB GALLAGHER
Wed, Jun 19, 2024 9:41amGrey Clock 3 min

Not long ago, designer Jonathan Anderson attended a music festival where he surveyed the crowd and thought, Now this is where all the fashion has been lurking.

“I saw more people dressing more in high fashion than actually what was happening in fashion,” said Anderson , who designs the British clothing brand JW Anderson, as well as LVMH’s Loewe.

The free expression of these festival goers stuck with Anderson as it clashed with the risk-shy attitude that has guided much of luxury fashion in recent years. “I wonder,” said Anderson this past weekend in Milan, “has fashion become so conservative whereas what’s happening out there is actually way more avant-garde?”

Just a couple of years ago in Milan, “quiet luxury ” was on the tip of everyone’s tongue. This collocation was a simplistic shorthand for where fashion was going: pricey but prim; light on logos but heavy on the wallet; all cashmere everything in grey, beige, navy.

Fashion is a creative industry and designers can only cup their mouths for so long. At the latest edition of Milan men’s fashion week, shouts in the form of new, notice-me clothes broke out from the runways.

“People want uniqueness, maybe they want something which is challenging somehow,” said Anderson, speaking after the latest JW Anderson show, which was widely held up as the most successful collection of a muddled Milanese sprint.

Highlights included winsome cardigans with children’s book depictions of London terrace houses, leather jackets contorted by ski-slope-like hems and a kitschy sweater showing a smirking pint of Guinness—an upmarket riff on a Dublin tourist souvenir.

The day after Anderson’s show, came the surprise online release of a bulging 171-outfit lookbook from Valentino, the first stab from the label’s new creative director Alessandro Michele, who helped lift Gucci to a more than $10-billion brand before leaving in 2022.

At Gucci, Michele ushered in a maximalist fashion moment, and based on this initial showing, his taste for theatrics is intact. Against a backdrop of winter-mint curtains, feather-haired models (often wearing gigundo nerd glasses and hoops of pearls) sported floppy dog-ear ties, Kermit-green suits and tapestry prints. Flipping through the collection, all the tired but fitting Michele comparisons came rushing back: Wes Anderson films, kooky grandmothers and leopard-clad psych-rock bands.

Valentino, which is part-owned by Kering, also made its commercial intentions clear by sending out 93 close-up photos spotlighting easy-to-buy accessories like V-logoed sandals and rectangular handbags.

Notably, Sabato de Sarno, the still newish creative director who replaced Michele at Gucci, seemed to be shrugging off his own restraints. Neither De Sarno nor François-Henri Pinault, CEO of Gucci parent company Kering, spoke to the press after the show, but the collection was a departure from the brand’s recent strategy of focusing on classic, trend-agnostic pieces that cater to older, wealthier clients.

Model on the runway at the Gucci fashion show during Milan Fashion Week Menswear Spring/Summer 2025 held at Triennale di Milano on June 17, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD via Getty Images)

De Sarno’s surf-inspired offering bounded between skin-revealing mesh polo shirts, skimpy thigh-high shorts and camp-collared shirts with blooming hibiscus flowers prints. It would be hard to imagine much of it on anyone over 29. (Actor Paul Mescal, 28, was already in the front row in a pair of those shorty shorts.)

Youthful abandon was the theme at Gucci’s mightiest Milanese competitor, Prada. “Sometimes when you get older you start to overthink a lot and you limit yourself,” said Raf Simons , who is co-creative of the brand with Miuccia Prada , the grand doyenne of Italian fashion. “When you are young, you just go. We like that spirit.”

Models wore navel-exposing shrunken sweaters and pre-wrinkled sportcoats, a seeming nod to teens who haven’t yet learned the wonders of ironing. A lurid palette of hot pink and electric blue spoke to juvenile fashion experimentation.

Throughout the long weekend in Milan, the feeling settled in that this new, shoutier tone was a necessary course correction during an unsteady period for the apparel industry, and really, Europe at large.

The chatter of the front row centred on this month’s European Union elections which saw a surge in support for right-wing candidates, catching pundits and leaders like French President Emmanuel Macron by surprise. Inflation also remains stubbornly high.

Pressingly, for the fashion world, some of the world’s largest luxury labels have been reporting a glut of unsold products and a dearth of shoppers. Past strategies don’t seem to be working and one could tell that brands were ready to try anything to spur shoppers to spend a bit more.

Even at Zegna, a label so synonymous with quiet luxury that the cast of “Succession” wore it on that money-mad show, the clothes were more conspicuous. In between its Learjet-bound sotto voce suits, one found vivacious coral patterned jackets in blue and yellow.

“For sure playing more with colours and prints, we had fun,” said Zegna’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori following his show. “It’s a sense of freedom that I wanted to express.”



MOST POPULAR

A divide has opened in the tech job market between those with artificial-intelligence skills and everyone else.

A 30-metre masterpiece unveiled in Monaco brings Lamborghini’s supercar drama to the high seas, powered by 7,600 horsepower and unmistakable Italian design.

Related Stories
Lifestyle
LAMBORGHINI TAKES TO THE WATER WITH TECNOMAR 101FT SUPERYACHT
By Jeni O'Dowd 24/09/2025
Lifestyle
Amanoi Unveils First Ocean Pool Residence in Vietnam
By Staff Writer 18/09/2025
Lifestyle
A NEW CHAPTER FOR AN ICONIC (& VERY COMFORTABLE!) ARMCHAIR
By Jeni O'Dowd 17/09/2025
LAMBORGHINI TAKES TO THE WATER WITH TECNOMAR 101FT SUPERYACHT

A 30-metre masterpiece unveiled in Monaco brings Lamborghini’s supercar drama to the high seas, powered by 7,600 horsepower and unmistakable Italian design.

By Jeni O'Dowd
Wed, Sep 24, 2025 2 min

When Lamborghini takes to the water, subtlety isn’t on the agenda. Unveiled at the Monaco Yacht Show, the Tecnomar for Lamborghini 101FT is a 30-metre superyacht that fuses Italian automotive theatre with cutting-edge naval engineering.

The model builds on the collaboration that began in 2020 with the Tecnomar for Lamborghini 63, a sell-out success that celebrated the marque’s founding year.

This new flagship pushes the partnership between Automobili Lamborghini and The Italian Sea Group to a grander scale, designed to deliver the same adrenaline rush at sea that drivers expect behind the wheel.

“The Tecnomar for Lamborghini 101FT redefines the concept of nautical luxury,” said Stephan Winkelmann, Chairman and CEO of Automobili Lamborghini.

“It is not only a yacht, but an affirmation of Italian excellence. The Italian Sea Group and Automobili Lamborghini share an exclusive clientele who are passionate about beauty, technology, and extreme performance.”

Design cues are unmistakably Lamborghini. The yacht’s sharp exterior lines echo the Fenomeno supercar revealed at Monterey Car Week, complete with Giallo Crius launch livery and signature Y-shaped lighting.

Inside, the cockpit and lounges mirror the DNA of Sant’Agata supercars through hexagonal motifs, sculptural seating and dramatic contrasts. With accommodation for up to nine guests and three crew cabins, indulgence meets practicality on every deck.

Performance is equally uncompromising. Three MTU 16V 2000 M96L engines and triple surface propellers generate a combined 7,600 horsepower, driving the yacht to 45 knots at full throttle, with a cruising speed of 35 knots. Two 35 kW generators provide additional efficiency and reliability, ensuring the yacht’s power matches its presence.

Mitja Borkert, Lamborghini’s Design Director, said: “With the Tecnomar for Lamborghini 101FT, we aimed to create a product that embodies the main design characteristics of our super sports cars. All the details, from the exterior to the colour, to the interior areas, recall and are inspired by Lamborghini’s DNA.”

Presented in scale at Monaco, the definitive Tecnomar for Lamborghini 101FT is scheduled to hit the water at the end of 2027. For those who demand their indulgence measured not only in metres but in knots, this is Lamborghini’s most extravagant expression yet.

MOST POPULAR

A cluster of century-old warehouses beneath the Harbour Bridge has been transformed into a modern workplace hub, now home to more than 100 businesses.

Once a sleepy surf town, Noosa has become Australia’s prestige property hotspot, where multi-million dollar knockdowns, architectural showpieces and record-setting sales are the new normal.

Related Stories
Lifestyle
DESIGNING THE ULTIMATE GAMES ROOM FOR ALL AGES
By Kellie Richardson 30/07/2025
Property
FINAL RELEASE AT OPHORA TALLAWONG OFFERS QUALITY APARTMENTS UNDER $700K WITH RARE BUYER PROTECTIONS 
By Staff Writer 19/08/2025
Property
A Serious Tree-Changer’s Prize In A Millionaire’s Playground
By Kirsten Craze 19/09/2025
0
    Your Cart
    Your cart is emptyReturn to Shop