Here’s What It’s Like to Retire to Portugal
There are things I’ve needed to get used to. But after nearly four years of living in Lisbon, I’m thrilled I made the leap.
4 min
Four years ago, with my adult daughters gone from the nest, it was time for me to fly, too. And even though I had never set foot in Portugal, I decided to retire to Lisbon.
It has paid off spectacularly.
I was a director of marketing and communications at a public university and 55 years old when I retired.
Around that time, there was a lot of publicity about Americans, especially older single women like myself, moving to Portugal.
It remains one of the easiest places in the European Union to gain citizenship after five years of temporary residency (though a proposed law would double that to 10 years and add other requirements for most foreigners).
Portugal checked other boxes for me, too: It’s safe and affordable, a good base for travel, the U.S. is reachable within six hours from the East Coast, and the culture and natural beauty provide a wonderful environment.
The life I have created here has exceeded all of my expectations. I am more active and have deeper friendships than ever before.
The best part is the vast community of friends I have cultivated—mostly Americans, but also some from countries around the world.
They all make living here a lot of fun. Almost daily there is some kind of social event I can join, whether it is visiting museums or attending concerts, going to the beach or hiking.
I started a hiking group two years ago that now has 65 members. We explore historic and natural sights in Lisbon and nearby, including the breathtaking hills nestling the palaces of Sintra.
Changing apartments
Not everything has been smooth sailing. Before arriving, I signed an apartment lease to qualify for a temporary visa.
But after I settled in, it became clear that lots of nice apartments with lower rents were available.
So, after the first year, I moved to Almada, across the Tagus River. The money I saved on rent helped pad my budget for travel.
There was just one problem: Across the river, I felt a bit isolated from my friends.
Now I am closer to central Lisbon in a comfortable one-bedroom second-floor walk-up in a neighborhood with a lot of stores and restaurants.
There is a park where locals gather to listen to music and have a drink or watch their kids play together. I pay the equivalent of about $1,000 in rent and roughly $160 to $215 a month for electricity, water, gas and internet.
And I have a great view of the famed 25th of April Bridge and the towering Christ the King (Cristo Rei) statue that overlooks the city.
Like many apartment dwellers here, I don’t have central air or heating. The climate is comfortable without either, except for a few weeks in January when I use a space heater.
In the summer, I have a portable air-conditioning unit but so far I haven’t had to use it. There is also no dishwasher and no dryer. I use a clothesline on the balcony and a laundromat nearby in case I have an urgent need to dry things.
Delicious fresh fruits, vegetables and fish are all available from my local shopkeepers.
Frequently, I meet friends for lunch or dinner. I love the seafood here. The sea bass and bream are always tasty.
My favourite meal is gambas à guilho: shrimp sautéed in garlic and olive oil. Meals at a typical Portuguese restaurant can cost as little as $12-$15 for soup, an entree, coffee and dessert.
Sometimes I miss having a car, but it’s easy to get around on public transportation. For a little over $46 a month, I have access to every bus, train, tram and ferry within 30 miles.
To go farther within Portugal and Spain there are inexpensive buses and trains. Flights within Europe and to Northern Africa also are affordable, depending on the season.
I have visited Austria, Hungary, Morocco and Jordan, and I’ve visited the U.K, Spain and Italy multiple times in the past four years.
Next year, I will take my three daughters to Turkey for my 60th birthday! I belong to a pet-sitting/home-swap group, so my accommodations are frequently free; I only have to pay to get to the location.
Most of my airfares have ranged between about $110 and $215.
The price of healthcare
Another important thing I had to consider when moving here was healthcare.
Even with a pre-existing condition, I was able to purchase excellent private insurance for about $1,840 a year, and I have had good experiences with the private healthcare system.
A public hospital, however, supplies free medication for my autoimmune disease.
My life here isn’t without its downsides. Rising rents are an issue and have forced a number of friends to move.
I have considered buying an apartment, but ones that I would consider—those requiring no major work—start at well over $380,000, which is more than I want to spend.
Also, apartments here commonly have “paper thin” walls and floors. Everyone has stories about noisy neighbours.
When I moved into my first apartment, I was so worried about making noise that I gave my downstairs neighbours my number to call if I was ever too loud.
They thanked me but said, “Noise is to be expected…don’t worry about it.” In my current apartment building, two out of the five apartments are vacant and I rarely see my neighbours.
The only complaint is noise above my bedroom in the middle of the night. Fortunately lately, that has become less of an issue.
Learning Portuguese has been a bit of a struggle. I have taken classes for more than two years, and technically, I have passed the B1 level course, but speaking in public is frightening to me and therefore locals sometimes still have trouble understanding me.
Thankfully, the Portuguese people are kind and no matter how badly I bomb when trying to speak, they always praise my attempt and encourage me to keep trying.
And when I greet people in my neighbourhood by name and ask about their day, it continues to make my connection here stronger.
I plan to apply for Portuguese citizenship, though I still consider myself an American and always will. Neither Portugal nor the U.S. requires sole citizenship.
I have only been back to the U.S. twice: for my youngest’s college graduation and for my eldest’s wedding.
My daughters have always encouraged me to live the life I want, and they love to tell their friends their mom moved to Portugal.
My youngest has been here once, and the middle daughter, who goes to college in England, has been here twice.
All of my daughters and my son-in-law will be coming to visit me for Christmas this year, and I am ecstatic.
If my daughters lived here with me, I would consider my life here perfect.
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