Power of the Purse. Birkins and Kellys Dominate the Collectible Handbags Category.
The these coveted Hermès designs lead luxury auctions, but high-priced exotics may have peaked as first-time buyers flock to gain entry.
The these coveted Hermès designs lead luxury auctions, but high-priced exotics may have peaked as first-time buyers flock to gain entry.
For those following the growing auction market for luxury handbags, and wondering what might replace the ever-dominant Hermès Birkin and Kelly styles, experts at Sotheby’s and Christie’s don’t have much news.
“Birkins and Kellys are really sharing the top position in collectors’ hearts,” says Morgane Halimi, global head of handbags and fashion at Sotheby’s. She points out that in general, every size and style of Birkin and Kelly bags saw increases in average value and client interest. “They are perennial, highly desirable, and have become status symbols. And the Mini Kelly II, which was released in 2016, is slowly becoming a hit even among young collectors.”
Max Brownawell, head of the department for handbags and accessories at Christie’s (where Hermès bags account for 90% of sales) agrees. “Really, the collectible market for bags at this price point of $10,000 and up is exclusively going to be Hermès bags,” he says. “There’s a growing number of vintage Chanel bags that are considered highly collectible and valuable as well—bags that are iconic, such as Karl Lagerfeld designs from the ’90s. But very few bags from other brands hold their value at the level of Hermès.”
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Chanel vintage classics by Lagerfeld in the ’90s are also in high demand at Sotheby’s, where Chanel is the second-best seller. “His earliest bags from the ’80s and ’90s are the most popular of all vintage Chanel bags,” Halimi says.
Even so, those bags don’t breathe the same rarefied air as Hermès. The most expensive Chanel bag to sell at non-charity auction was Lagerfeld’s personal croc-embossed lambskin tote. It was sold complete with his 2011 FIAC contemporary art fair photo pass and a tag from the Chanel Paris-Bombay 2011/12 Métiers d’Art show. Given the illustrious provenance, it broke the record for a Chanel bag, selling for €94,500 (US$107,000) at the Sotheby’s estate auction of his property in December 2021.
Chanel’s top seller of 2024 at Sotheby’s was a gold lambskin Paris-Dubai Nights Gas Jerry Can bag with gold hardware from the 2015 Cruise collection. It was estimated to sell for between $5,000 and $7,000, but went for $33,600, far exceeding expectations.
The Pinnacle Bag
According to Sotheby’s, all 10 of the most expensive bags sold by the house in 2024 were Birkins or Kellys, and all but one was crafted from exotic crocodile or alligator skin. That lone non-exotic bag, claiming the No. 8 slot with a sale price of about $157,000, was a 2023 Midas Kelly 25 Sellier in black box calfskin leather with 18-karat gold hardware, hence its Midas label. The top spot on the list went to a 2021 Kelly 25 Himalaya with white-gold hardware set with 3.5 carats of diamonds, which sold for about $330,000.
Six of the 10 most expensive bags on the list were Himalaya styles, three of which had diamond-set 18-karat white gold hardware. Himalaya bags are so named for the exotic Nile crocodile that is distinctively dyed with an ombré effect of matte white and gray, evoking the snow-capped peaks of the Asian mountain range. When fitted with precious white-gold or even platinum diamond-set hardware, Himalayas reach record prices.
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Three spots in the top 10 were limited-edition Birkin 20 Faubourg styles in American alligator, two in shades of Snow and one in Midnight black, with prices ranging from $181,000 to $234,000. The first Faubourg Birkins, modeled on the architecture of the Paris flagship on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, debuted in 2019.
At a November 2021 Christie’s Hong Kong sale, a matte-white Himalaya Diamond Retourné Kelly 28, with 18-karat white-gold hardware set with 229 diamonds totaling 9.2 carats, sold for $512,880, cracking the half-million-U.S.-dollar mark and setting the record for the most expensive handbag sold at auction.
The earliest-known Hermès Celadon Himalayas emerged in 1994, and they were phased out of production in 2008. However, that year saw a new 30cm-size matte Himalayan Birkin that remained under the radar and was reserved for the brand’s VIP collectors. Then, Jean-Paul Gaultier featured a Himalaya Birkin at the 2010 Hermès’ spring runway show, making it an instant “grail” bag, and one with surprising longevity.
In 2012, Hermès introduced the 25cm Himalaya Birkin. The following year brought the Himalaya Kelly in more sizes, with a 35cm Himalaya Kelly added to the mix in 2020. Himalaya styles in other collections started appearing in 2016.
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Market Shifts
There are signs that the market for such extravagant bags has reached post-peak prices. “The most interesting trend we’ve seen is that exotic bags, which tend to sell for higher prices, have been a little bit soft,” says Brownawell. He explains that in general, exotics have come down over the last few years, while leather bags are going up steadily: “For certain sizes and styles, the prices for leather bags can sometimes be higher than the equivalent bag in an exotic.”
He attributes this trend to the growing demand for bags priced from $20,000 to $30,000, with huge numbers of buyers aspiring to ownership though they can’t possibly attain the pricier exotic Birkins and Kellys.
“It’s a much thinner market when you’re looking at bags that are in the $50,000-to-$200,000 range, and people who are buying in that higher range have a lot more ability to be picky about what they want,” he says.
The growing numbers of younger clients entering the market each season are unlikely to bid on a six-figure Himalaya Birkin right out of the gate. “They’re going to start out in leather, and they’ll probably want a black, brown, or gray leather Birkin,” Brownawell says. “That’s really where the market has been the strongest—the prices for a store-fresh, neutral-leather Birkin 25 or 30 have never been higher.”
He adds that limited editions are another bright spot—whether it’s new ones that are highly coveted for the first year after release before prices stabilize, or lesser-known vintage special editions. “Some vintage limited editions that haven’t been seen on the market could do extremely well, because I think there is a strong appetite among collectors for what they haven’t seen,” Brownawell says.
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One unexpected twist, he adds, is that some of the priciest Birkins aren’t necessarily the rarest. “If you want a diamond Himalaya Birkin, I can get you one, even two,” Brownawell says. “But there are much rarer bags out there that I probably couldn’t come up with, though it might be a much lower price point.”
At Sotheby’s, where handbags are one of the house’s fastest-growing departments, women buyers account for the majority of auctions worldwide. “We are seeing buyers as young as their 20s, with participants of our handbag auctions, both buyers and sellers, mostly in their 30s and 40s,” Halimi says. “That is significantly younger compared with some other categories sold at Sotheby’s.”
Women also make up the majority of handbag purchasers at Christie’s, where handbags are the only category dominated by female buyers. “It’s mostly women between the ages of 25 and 60,” Brownawell says. “Wealthy women, of all types—whether they are self-made, married well, or born into wealth—are attracted to Hermès bags.”
This article originally appeared in the February 2025 issue of Mansion Global Experience Luxury.
As tariffs bite, Sydney’s MAISON de SABRÉ is pushing deeper into the US, holding firm on pricing and proving that resilience in luxury means more than survival.
Early indications from several big regional real-estate boards suggest March was overall another down month.
Can its real-estate market continue to rise amid stock-market turmoil?
MANALAPAN, FLA.— The Deal-Closer. That’s what real-estate agent Jack Elkins jokingly calls the Hinckley picnic boat he docks on the Intracoastal Waterway in the Florida community of Manalapan.
From the road, many of Manalapan’s mansions are shrouded by plantings and foliage, but they are clearly visible from the water, Elkins explained. A boat ride is often the best way to show properties to the wealthy buyers now flocking to the tiny town.
On a recent afternoon, Elkins cruised down the Intracoastal in the The Deal-Closer, passing mansion after mansion, most with their own docks. “When I was a little kid, almost all of this was jungle,” said Elkins, 46, who spent much of his childhood in the area. “There were foxes and parrots and all these wild animals.”
Manalapan, a roughly 2.4-square-mile town with a population of about 400, is just south of glitzier Palm Beach.
While Manalapan has long drawn moneyed residents such as the singer Billy Joel, it has historically lacked the prestige—and price tags—of Palm Beach. That has changed dramatically over the past five years, however, thanks to a series of major home sales.
In 2022, for example, Oracle billionaire Larry Ellison paid $173 million for a historic Manalapan estate. And David MacNeil, the founder of the automotive-accessories manufacturer WeatherTech, has spent a combined $94 million over the past year on a pair of neighboring sites, with plans to build a megamansion there.
“People like Larry Ellison and David MacNeil, these individuals can afford to buy real estate anywhere in the world,” said local real-estate agent Nick Malinosky of Douglas Elliman . “Manalapan is not a second choice for them. It’s their first choice.”
On South Ocean Boulevard, Manalapan’s most affluent corridor, about 21 homes have traded for more than $20 million each since 2020. At least six have sold for $40 million or more, up from only one in that price range during the previous five years.
In 2021, eBay billionaire Jeffrey Skoll bought an ocean-to-Intracoastal estate for $89.93 million, while Joel’s longtime home sold last year for $42.6 million.
Now, however, it is unclear whether Manalapan’s hot streak can continue. Like luxury markets across the country, the town is contending with stock-market turmoil and the fallout from President Trump’s tariffs.
Like many Manalapan residents, local developer Stewart Satter, who is listing a yet-to-be-built spec home for $285 million, is a Trump supporter. During the 2024 election, Satter flew a giant Trump flag above the site.
But tariffs have “created a tremendous amount of uncertainty at the minimum, and that is not good for business,” Satter said. “It’s not good for real estate. People say, ‘Let’s wait. We’re not going to buy a house, we’re not going to build a house.’”
Elkins’ cuddly Native American Indian Dog, Bear, lounged on The Deal-Closer’s blue-and-white-striped seats as the boat zipped along the Intracoastal, passing glassy modern mansions and traditional Mediterranean estates.
To catch a glimpse of Ellison’s roughly 16-acre oceanfront estate, Elkins guided the Hinckley through the Boynton Inlet into the choppy Atlantic, where the sandy beach in front of Ellison’s property was visible.
Known as Gemini, the gargantuan mansion was once owned by the late publishing magnate William B. Ziff Jr., who brought in large plantings and trees from South America for the landscaping.
“When I was a little kid, barges were going by our house with these huge trees,” Elkins recalled.
Ellison has approved plans to add more homes to the estate. He also paid about $277 million last year for Manalapan’s Eau Palm Beach Resort & Spa, home to the members-only La Coquille Club, and talk is rife about how Ellison might upgrade the property. Ellison didn’t respond to requests for comment.
It’s a strange feeling, Elkins said, to see Manalapan hit the big time.
Before Covid, the town was often confused with its namesake: Manalapan, N.J. Tiny compared with Palm Beach, Manalapan developed much more slowly than its famous neighbour. It lacks the commercial infrastructure of Palm Beach, and its low-density zoning has kept it largely free of major condos or resorts.
When Satter, the developer, bought four empty lots in Manalapan in 2005, parts of the town looked like “just a mess of woods,” said his wife, Susan Satter. “I said, ‘Is this really how we want to invest our money?’”
Over the next decade, her husband built spec homes on three of the lots and sold them for a significant profit. He kept one, building a mansion there for himself and his wife.
“I thought I’d discovered a really special place,” said Stewart, who tested products for Walmart before turning to spec-home development. “If I had known what was going to happen, obviously, in the rear view mirror, I would have bought the whole town.”
The buyers of Satter’s projects include Ron and Cindy McMackin, who paid roughly $39 million in 2020 for a roughly 15,500-square-foot waterfront house with six bedrooms, then expanded it.
The couple, founders of the mechanical subcontracting company Pan-Pacific Mechanical, had relocated from Hawaii to South Florida during COVID.
“We knew nothing about Manalapan when we moved here,” said Ron, 78. He and Cindy were in the process of moving into a Palm Beach property they owned when their real-estate agent, Lawrence Moens , called. The actor Sylvester Stallone was searching for a home amid the Covid-induced real-estate frenzy, and wanted to see their house.
Before they knew it, they had agreed to sell to the “Rocky” star for $35.375 million, 33% more than the $26.65 million they had paid two years earlier.
This left them without a house. It was slim pickings in Palm Beach, and with five children, they needed plenty of space. Moens suggested Manalapan. At the time, the less-flashy choice was surprising to some of their Palm Beach friends. “I did hear a couple of times from people after that, ‘Why would Lawrence take the McMackins to Manalapan?’” said Ron.
But the McMackins love that it is quieter than Palm Beach, with less traffic. The couple have Sunday dinners with their neighbours, and Cindy has a small group of girlfriends who call themselves the “Manalapan mafia.” The McMackins like it so much that they are building a new, larger home along the same stretch.
Food-service entrepreneur Bob Carlucci and his wife, Aileen Carlucci, paid $11.63 million in 2020 for a roughly 13,000-square-foot Manalapan mansion on the Intracoastal, with a small beach house on the ocean. They are happy to have “discovered Manalapan early, ” Bob said.
Many buyers are tearing down older homes to build new mansions, Malinosky said. Before COVID, Manalapan was seen as more of a vacation destination, so buyers weren’t as choosy. Now that many are seeking full-time homes, however, “they want to make sure that it has the spa, it’s got the 12-car garage, it’s got the fitness centre, it’s got the wellness centre.”
Another prized amenity is a tunnel that runs underneath Highway A1A. Portions of the town are on a barrier island, and some homes sit on the ocean, requiring residents to cross the busy road to reach their docks on the Intracoastal.
Other estates are on the Intracoastal but have small beachhouses on the ocean. A tunnel allows residents to easily go from one side to the other.
Construction of these tunnels has become a rare point of contention between residents. In January, one couple asked the town commission to stop their neighbors from digging under the highway during the tourist season, claiming it was causing traffic to back up.
Building on the coast comes with challenges. Florida building code now requires roofs, windows and doors in high-risk areas to withstand winds of up to 170 miles an hour, according to builder Robert Burrage, who is building MacNeil’s home and four others in Manalapan.
Satter said the property insurance on his personal residence in Manalapan doesn’t include coverage for hurricane damage because it was too expensive. In addition to the annual premium, which was about $150,000 a year, he would have faced a deductible on hurricane damage of about 10% of the assessed value of the house.
He isn’t concerned with rising sea-levels, however. “When I bought my first oceanfront lot, my late father-in-law said, ‘What the hell are you doing? Don’t you know about global warming?’” Satter said. “I sold it at a huge number [in 2016] and made a lot of money. It’s been sold again and again and again—and the water hasn’t done anything.”
Manalapan’s proximity to Mar-a-Lago has added to its popularity since Trump’s election to a second term, Malinosky said. Many residents support Trump. In the McMackins’ home, a bedazzled MAGA purse hangs in Cindy’s closet and a photo book in the living room shows her attending a Trump event at Mar-a-Lago, where they are members.
But the trade war and stock-market volatility have injected uncertainty into the real-estate market.
Until recently, Hamptons home builder Joe Farrell was considering paying more than $30 million for a building site in Manalapan, he said. He has decided to hold off on any acquisitions for now, however, because of the tariffs and resulting stock-market fallout.
“The market seems to still be pretty good, but people are maybe a little more cautious about parting ways with liquidity,” Farrell said. “I want to see things stabilize before I commit to that kind of capital outlay.”
Elkins said one of his clients considered backing out of a $10 million deal over the last few weeks on Point Manalapan, but decided to move ahead to avoid forfeiting the deposit.
Malinosky said he still sees significant demand for big-ticket properties in Manalapan, especially since many wealthy people are taking money out of the stock market. He said he has closed more than $150 million in deals in the greater Palm Beach area over the past two weeks.
Even with the uncertainty, “there is no shortage of buyers that will spend $100 million right now in Manalapan,” he said.
Shelly Newman, an agent with the Corcoran Group, said she recently sold a piece of land to a spec-home developer for $25 million. And the McMackins are moving ahead with plans to complete their new house, though tariffs have been “the talk of the town,” Ron said.
“I do have a stock portfolio and it is down,” he said. “But I don’t let that affect what I’m doing. We’re very fortunate with resources.”
While Satter agrees with efforts to bring manufacturing back to the U.S., he said he has been blindsided by the extent of the trade war. “I’m not sure about how they’re rolling it out,” he said.
A handful of potential buyers have expressed interest in his $285 million listing, he said, but he realizes the prospective buyer pool is tiny. “There are going to be three or four people who ultimately show real interest and have the capacity to pull the trigger,” he said.
Ultimately, he said he isn’t too worried about the prospects for sale, since he can afford to sit on the property long-term.
Still, real-estate agents said Satter’s property and others may be priced too aggressively, even without tariffs.
British hedge-fund billionaire Chris Rokos is listing his 3-acre Manalapan estate for $150 million, more than triple what he paid for it in 2017. And real-estate investor Vivian Dimond recently cut the price of a Manalapan home by $14.5 million, to $64.5 million. It’s been on the market since September 2024.
For some Manalapan residents, home values are beside the point. Bob and Aileen Carlucci, for example, have no intention of moving.
“We look at each other and we say. ‘This is it,’” Bob said. “You can’t get anything better, we don’t believe—in this country, at least.”
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